Some places move you more than others, and Trieste affected me more than most. I left my heart here, this small city at the far northeastern corner of Italy. With Croatia and Slovenia nearby, this former Austro-Hungarian city has a unique history with diverse influences. The elegant architecture is different from the typical “Italian-ness” of that of Florence and Rome. The people are friendly and, despite being small, the city provides the perfect amount of bustle with a vibrant nightlife.

I arrived at Stazione Trieste Centrale after a stay in Padua. A short stroll along the waterfront led me to the city’s main square, Piazza Unità  d’Italia. Surrounded by historic government buildings, including the Palazzo del Municipio (City Hall), the square hosts several cafes facing an impressive fountain, the Fontana dei Quattro Continenti (Fountain of the Four Continents). In the evenings, live music can be heard and, after dark, the pavement illuminates with serene blue lights.

The unmissable Canale Grande sits slightly north of the main square. The large canal leads from the waterfront to the Chiesa di Sant’Antonio Taumaturgo, a dominating neoclassical Catholic church built in 1842. If visiting churches is your thing, you might also be interested in the Chiesa Evangelica Luterana, a Lutheran church built in the 18th century when the Austro-Hungarian Empire still ruled the city.

Connected to the canal is Via Cassa di Risparmio, one of the city’s main pedestrian walkways. On this street full of life, one finds the historic Buffet da Pepi (a famous Austro-Hungarian eatery for meats, opened in 1897), the Borsa Vecchia (the old stock exchange) and, at the end, Ponte Curto (a bridge that crosses the Canale Grande).

Across the street from the main square is the Trieste waterfront and the aforementioned pier, Molo Audace. Nearby are statues of two girls knitting, Le Sartine, a symbol of the city. During my stay, a historic ship was docked along the waterfront, prompting long lines for those who wished to go on board.

For amazing views of Trieste, head up to the Castello di San Giusto (Castle of Saint Justus), a hilltop castle constructed after the Austrian invasion of 1469. After undergoing numerous changes throughout its lifetime, the castle today features an art and history museum, as well as a vantage point for the best panoramic views of Trieste. There’s even a bar up top for a drink and snack with your view.

The Cattedrale di San Giusto Martire (Trieste Cathedral), can also be found on the Colle di San Giusto (Hill of Saint Justus). It’s the main church of Trieste, a tribute to the saint that was consecrated in 1385. Nearby, one finds the dramatic Monumento ai Caduti di Trieste (Monument to the Fallen of Trieste), inaugurated in 1935 and dedicated to the fallen soldiers of World War One.

The Parco della Rimembranza is another elevated site in Trieste. The memorial park serves as a peaceful escape from the urban center. A large fountain sits at the top. Below, one finds the Teatro Romano, the ruins of an old Roman amphitheater.

While I unfortunately wasn’t able to visit the Museo Revoltella, the city’s modern art museum, I did get to see a temporary exhibit at the Auditorium Museo Revoltella, their exhibit space along the waterfront: Due Fronti, Una Città , a poignant exhibition that examined Trieste’s role in World War One through personal accounts and artifacts. Near the Museo Revoltella, in the Piazza Attilio Hortis, one finds the Statue of James Joyce. The renowned writer spent time in Trieste in his early 20s when he was a poor English teacher.

On the heavier side of history, the Risiera di San Sabba, a former Nazi concentration camp that was turned into museum in 1975, is also available for visits. Located out of the city center, it’s reachable by bus (#8 or #10) in about 15 minutes. I didn’t have time to visit the profound site, but perhaps one day I will.

One of the top attractions for those visiting Trieste is the Castello di Miramare, a historic waterfront palazzo and museum with a serene park surrounding it. From the main square, take bus #8 and transfer to #6 at Viale Miramare 19 along Trieste Centrale. Devote some time for walking the Parco del Castello di Miramare as it’s really stunning with lots to see.

On a particular afternoon, during which I wandered the waterfront, I spotted a ferry about to depart for a city called Muggia. Not knowing anything about it (except that there was a return boat), I jumped aboard. It was a pleasant segue to a quiet town across the Gulf of Trieste to the south. There’s the Duomo di Muggia, the main church located in Piazza Guglielmo Marconi with cafes surrounding it. I grabbed a Campari Spritz at Bikers Cafe for a ridiculously low price while the square buzzed with children biking back and forth. Up in the hills of Muggia, I discovered the Chiesa San Francesco, a secluded small church that is perhaps the most peaceful church I’ve ever visited in Italy.

Trieste is the home of Illy Coffee, and the company’s Università  del Caffè is located here. Most cafes in the city are lovely and offer outdoor seating. I liked Adoro Cafe, a chic spot with a nice assortment of pastries. There’s also Caffè Teatro Verdi, a cafe near the historic Teatro Verdi.

For lunch, La Caveja Piadineria serves cheap piadine (flatbread sandwiches typical of the Emilia-Romagna region). I also enjoyed the pizza at Di Fronte al Verdi, a hip pizzeria across from Teatro Verdi. For dinner, Kapuziner Keller serves Bavarian fare in a casual beer hall setting, something worth checking out if you’re interested in dining outside the realm of Italian.

A few aperitivo spots I had the pleasure of visiting were Bar Buffet Borsa, located along the busy Via Cassa di Risparmio and thus great for people watching, and Caffè Eppinger, a nice locale with plenty of outdoor seats for aperitivo along Via Dante Alighieri. Along the waterfront, Marina San Giusto Bar offers drinks in something resembling a yacht club.

Just kicking it with a glass of Spritz or Hugo or Negroni was a highlight. One wonders where the recession is with everyone going out and filling the bars. I suppose it’s in harder times that we all need a drink or three.

The morning before leaving, we returned to the pier where we sat on the day that I arrived, and I thought about all the memories I had made during my brief stay here. I sometimes wish I had spent more time in the city, but I suppose the timing wasn’t right. I left my heart in Trieste, and I hope one day I can get it back.

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MIRAMARE

MUGGIA

The post The Romance of Trieste – Finding Magic in Italy’s Northeastern Corner first appeared on Keane Li.

Five years later, I would return to the city that had initiated me to Italy. In the time between, I had seen much of the country during my stay in Rome, Emilia-Romagna and last year’s journey through Europe. My language skills have markedly improved, though I still struggle at times. So I wondered yet again how Venice would appear to me, now knowing so much more than I did then… now that I was no longer a “tourist” to the country…

My adventure in Veneto, the region in which Venice is a part of, actually began in the nearby town of Padua. I had arrived after several days in Turin and a magical stay in Florence to visit a friend I had met in Rome four years prior.

Padua, part of the Padua-Treviso-Venice Metropolitan Area, is a small town situated over the Bacchiglione River, the branches of which stretch through the city as photogenic canals. The historic center, with its portici and numerous piazze, create that classic northern Italian atmosphere reminiscent of a Shakespearian play (The Taming of the Shrew was set in this city).

Worth noting is the University of Padua, founded in 1222, the second-oldest university in Italy (after the University of Bologna, founded in 1088) and one of the earliest universities in the world. Galileo Galilei gave lectures here. You may have heard of him.

After arriving at the Stazione di Padova, I went straight to the Capella degli Scrovegni (Scrovegni Chapel), a small chapel that’s one of Padua’s top attractions. Reservations are required for a visit (you can buy tickets online from the museum’s website), as there is a mandatory dehumidifying process before one enters. What makes this small chapel remarkable are the frescoes by Giotto, painted in the early 1300s.

Also part of the chapel, and included with admission, is the Musei Civici agli Eremitani, a group of museums that covers medieval art, modern art and archaeology. One could spend a substantial amount of time wandering these halls.

While the Basilica Pontificia di Sant’Antonio di Padova (Basilica of St. Anthony) isn’t the “duomo” of the city (that designation is bestowed upon the Basilica Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta), it’s Padua’s largest church. Inside, you’ll find several works by Donatello, including an equestrian statue and, perhaps most famous, the bronze Madonna with Child. Most striking is the gold reliquary inside the church, as they display the chin and tongue of preachy St. Anthony.

If you’re thirsty, check out Osteria L’Anfora, a no-nonsense wine bar with great prices. Worthwhile wines typical of Veneto are Valpolicella and Amarone. For coffee and aperitivo, visit the chic Caffeine, a cafe-lounge that opened shortly before my visit. It was literally shiny and new, and the aperitivo spread was great.

Located slightly outside the city center is a pizzeria called iDon. You may not find yourself near here, but I thought it was worth mentioning since it was the locale of my birthday dinner (the food is also really good and the service is friendly).

The following day, we took a day trip to Venice, about a 30-minute train ride away from Padua. Of course, I revisited the oft-mentioned Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square). While I had already been inside the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) with its famous Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs), this trip provided my first experience inside the Basilica Cattedrale Patriarcale di San Marco (St. Mark’s Basilica) to see its stunning interior. For first timers, purchase your tickets to the Palazzo Ducale online, as crowds can get crazy. The basilica is easy enough to enter and there’s no admission fee.

Book lovers should check out Libreria Acqua Alta, one of the most unique bookstores I’ve ever visited. Inside, books are piled around such that hunting through them becomes a literal adventure. In the back, a small path of stacked books can be ascended for an unobstructed view of a quiet canal.

Snacking on cicchetti is a Venetian experience one can’t miss. These small plates of food purchased at low prices to be paired with drinks are somewhat akin to tapas (to draw a broad comparison for the sake of understanding). A great place for wine and cicchetti is Cantine del Vino Già  Schiavi. Another good option is Osteria Chicchetteria al Bocon DiVino with its wide open door-windows and cheap prices for cocktails like the Hugo and the Spritz (a creation of Veneto now popular throughout Italy).

Of course, Venice is most beautiful as the sun sets. And the atmosphere at night is haunting, especially as the tourists head back to their hotels, leaving the streets empty save for their mysteries. Try and catch these moments at various points in the city.

Padua and Venice are just two great offerings in Veneto. I look forward to exploring more of the region when I return later this year.

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PADUA

VENICE

The post Visiting Veneto – Highlights of Venice and Padua first appeared on Keane Li.

If you’ve never visited Florence before, you’re likely interested in viewing Michelangelo’s David. Housed inside the Galleria dell’Accademia, David is the featured figure in a museum of other sculptures and paintings. I’d recommend purchasing tickets in advance online and picking them up from the ticket office down the street. There are numerous agencies offering varying services and prices; I chose the cheapest, frills-free option and it was fine. Here’s the link to purchase tickets to see David with the service I used, the official website for state Florentine museums. You’ll be assigned an entrance time, so be sure to get to the ticket counter and museum early as lines can potentially be long.

Another museum I thoroughly enjoyed was Palazzo Strozzi, then exhibiting Da Kandinsky a Pollack (“From Kandinsky to Pollack”), a great adventure through modern art. Of the many museums I’ve visited in Italy, few were as expertly and professionally run as this one (I was told it’s because the museum is privately owned and managed).

Fans of amazing panoramic views should first check out the rooftop of La Rinascente, an Italian department store chain. The rooftop features a cafe and eatery where visitors can see much of Florence. If the day is nice, a trip to the Giardino Bardini (Bardini Garden) and the Giardini di Boboli (Boboli Gardens) is required. From these adjacent parks, one can see some of the best views of the city. Additionally, the Giardini di Boboli also includes the Museo delle Porcellane (a small museum of porcelain items) and the Galleria del Costume (a fancy clothing and dress museum). You can purchase a ticket that includes both gardens, museums included. In the Giardini di Boboli, you’ll also find a giant figure of a face by the sculptor Igor Mitoraj, whose work I was introduced to in the small Tuscan town of Pietrasanta last year.

Of course, Tuscany is about food. No trip to Florence is complete without several visits to All’Antico Vinaio, perhaps the most renowned sandwich shop in the city. Using the Tuscan schiacciata flatbread, huge sandwiches are crafted to order, costing around 5€. For a sit-down meal, check out Osteria de’ Benci, a casual restaurant with outdoor seating. I ordered the Spaghetti dell’Ubriacone, spaghetti cooked in red wine with garlic and hot pepper, and paired it with, of course, red wine. For dessert, check out Carapina, a new-ish Italian craft gelateria that’s expanding to more cities, located near Piazza della Signoria. Also lovely is Gelateria La Carraia, located along the River Arno on the opposite side of the city center at the end of Ponte alla Carraia. One of my favorite moments of my trip was getting gelato here with two friends the night before my birthday.

Closer to the train station is Florence’s popular Mercato Centrale (Central Market), a historic food market with a sleek conglomeration of artisan food vendors up top. One of my local friends deems it a place primarily for tourists, and it shows. While much quality can be found, prices are generally higher. If you visit, definitely check out the unpretentious Nerbone downstairs. Here, you can get cheap sandwiches typical of Florence, like the lampredotto (cow stomach) and the bollito (slowly boiled beef). Upstairs, La Pasta Fresca, opened by master pasta maker Raimondo Mendolia, is a relatively affordable place to try great pasta dishes. For drinks, La Birreria del Mercato Centrale offers beer and wine, though quality craft beer options are few. Finally, check out Eataly for fancy food items to take with you (they have craft beer here, but you can’t drink it in the market).

For aperitivo and nightlife, Florence offers many chic bars and lounges. On my first night in, I was invited to a party at Rivalta, a cocktail bar located along the Arno. Drinks were good and the aperitivo spread was nice, though it’s not the cheapest of options. I particularly loved Odeon Bistrò, a bar located next to the historic cinema hall, Cinema Odeon Firenze (built in 1922). I was told Lindsay Lohan comes to Odeon, though that shouldn’t detract from its excellent quality. The drinks are big and strong, and the aperitivo is a great dinner substitute. To top off the trendy category of nightlife venues, check out La Ménagère, a cafe-lounge with many faces. During the day, it’s relaxing and open, offering pastries, really great coffee and brunch items. During the night, it becomes a cocktail bar with live music in its underground level. Try the Spritz Veneziano (at any time of the day); it’s fantastic.

Beer lovers need to check out BrewDog Firenze, a craft beer bar located in the city center. It’s one of my favorite places in Florence, whether I’m alone or with friends, and I always add it to my itinerary. They feature a wide selection of great beers on tap, notably Italian craft beers you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. Ask Lapo, the owner, for recommendations if you’re unsure what to get. Near the train station is another craft beer bar called Mostodolce. I had a beer and pizza here on my first night. It was a nice spot, though their tap selection was extremely limited when I visited.

Of course, I hit up the popular historic attractions, some of which I detailed in my previous post on Florence: Piazza della Signoria, the Basilica di San Lorenzo and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore (two church-museums worth their admission prices), and, last but never least, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo) and Ponte Vecchio, two of the most spectacular sights in Italy of which I could stare at for hours.

Leaving Florence was hard, but the walk to the train station was made easier with a cup of coffee and a friend at La Cocotte, a cozy cafe with wonderful decor. It was a lovely final moment in Florence. After all, it’s usually the simple memories that are the most meaningful.

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“Torino. Do you like Torino?” A line from one of my favorite films, La Meglio Giovent๠in which Luigi Lo Cascio’s character suggests to his friends to move to Turin so that he can be close to a girl he just met. I don’t know. Do I?

I had only heard good things about Turin before arriving. The city was Italy’s first capital after the country’s reunification, serving from 1861 until Rome was designated the capital in 1871. Today, Turin is part of the industrial triangle between itself, Milan and the coastal city of Genoa. The home of FIAT cars and lots of chocolate (hello, Gianduiotto!), I imagined it would be a pretty interesting place. If you only have a few days to explore the city like I did, I would recommend picking and choosing from the following.

To begin your exploration of Turin, stroll down Via Roma, the major street that connects Piazza Castello (the city’s main square) to Stazione Torino Porta Nuova (the main train station and the third busiest in Italy), cutting through Piazza San Carlo with its Monumento a Emanuele Filiberto (a Duke of Savoy from the 16th century). Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, which connects with Piazza Castello and heads off to the west, is a pedestrian-only commercial street where you’ll find a great number of shops and eateries.

Perhaps the two most popular attractions in Turin are the Museo Egizio (the Egyptian museum) and the Museo Nazionale del Cinema (National Cinema Museum). Both are worth visiting, though expect crowds because of their popularity.

The Museo Egizio houses one of the world’s most impressive collections of Egyptian artifacts (yes, this includes numerous mummies). An audioguide is included, which helps immensely in learning about what you’re seeing. Bring your own earphones to make the experience a bit more comfortable. If you should find yourself stuck between groups of schoolchildren, simply slow your pace and let them pass. I found this was a good strategy. Don’t try to outpace them; you’ll never win.

If the Museo Nazionale del Cinema is on your list, purchase your tickets in advance. I hadn’t planned on visiting the museum and found the wait on my last day to be over an hour just for tickets. So that’s all I can say about that.

The city museums are worth visiting, as you’ll get a sense of Turin’s history. Foremost is Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace of Turin), which hosts numerous museums that one can visit with a single ticket. Expect to spend some time here, as there are plenty of paintings, archaeological artifacts and an armory to explore. There’s also access to a rooftop where panoramic views of Turin can be enjoyed. Be sure to also spend some time in the Giardini Reali (Royal Gardens), a great place for a pause.

Next to Palazzo Reale is the Palazzo Chiablese. This small museum featured an exhibit on Matisse that I really liked. It’s not as extensive as the other museums, but it’s worth checking out to see what they’re featuring.

Lastly, located across Piazza Castello is Palazzo Madama, an art museum that was featuring an exhibit on impressionism during my time of visit. Like Palazzo Chiablese, this museum requires a separate ticket from that of Palazzo Reale.

The Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista (also known as the Duomo di Torino or Turin Cathedral), a church located near Piazza Castello and adjacent to the Palazzo Reale, is the resting place of the Shroud of Turin (not publicly viewable). It was consecrated in 1505 and is perhaps the most visited church in Turin. Also worth visiting is the Chiesa di San Filippo Neri, a church located near the Museo Egizio. Completed in 1730 by the architect Antonio Bettino, it’s the largest church in the city.

If you’re looking for a breather from urban exploration, head to the Po River for a relaxing stroll. It’s especially lovely during the sunset. Parco del Valentino, a large park along the river located east of Porta Nuova, is a pleasant green spot for walks. At the southern end of the park is Borgo Medioevale (an 1884 reproduction of a medieval city) and Teatro Nuovo (a theater hosting dance and theatrical performances).

For street food, check out Master Sandwich located a few steps from Piazza Castello. For around 5€, you’ll get a delicious and huge panino. I opted for #22, the Viandante, a sandwich comprised of mortadella, pesto, grilled eggplant and Brie. Brà»le Piadinoteca located near the Museo Egizio, is also a great choice as they make some of the best piadine I’ve ever had. These Italian flatbread sandwiches are typical of the Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, in which I spent some time. I chose one off the menu: prosciutto crudo, mozzarella, pomodoro (tomato), rucola (arugula) for under 5€. They also offer healthy options like piadine made of kamut and chia. For something more snack-sized, check out Il Polpettificio in San Salvario. This polpetta (meatball) shop is run by Alessandro, a chef passionate about his creations. Options change daily, but what was offered when I stopped in were pork balls, vegetarian balls, meatballs covered in crunchy cornflakes and a dessert ball covered in melted chocolate. He also offers complimentary fried pizza dough covered in tomato sauce if you order a certain amount of polpette.

Nightlife lovers should check out the San Salvario neighborhood, the hip quarter located directly east of Porta Nuova where numerous bars can be found. At night, it comes alive with energy and noise as trendy Italians flock in for aperitivo. I know this because my apartment was located directly above several of these bars. (Thankfully, I’m not a light sleeper.) For beer lovers, check out the city’s craft beer bars, including Open Baladin Torino and Birreria Petit Baladin (I was a frequent visitor of the Open Baladin in Rome and loved it), and Birrificio La Piazza. Any city with numerous craft beer options is all right in my book.

There are many more offerings in Turin I haven’t even touched upon, such as the influence of jazz (the city hosts the annual Torino Jazz Festival in the spring), chocolate sampling, the FIAT factory tour, the many other eclectic museums and fine dining. If I’ve missed any of your favorites, please feel free to list them in the comments below.

So… Torino. Do I like Torino?

I do.

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