Italy 2016 (Part 2) | Keane Li https://keane.li Traveler | Writer | Photographer Wed, 23 Aug 2023 21:03:15 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.2 https://i0.wp.com/keane.li/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/cropped-airplanelogo2.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Italy 2016 (Part 2) | Keane Li https://keane.li 32 32 43553214 More Photos From Florence, Empoli & Tips for Climbing the Duomo https://keane.li/2017/03/06/more-photos-from-florence-empoli-tips-for-climbing-the-duomo/ https://keane.li/2017/03/06/more-photos-from-florence-empoli-tips-for-climbing-the-duomo/#comments Tue, 07 Mar 2017 04:08:44 +0000 http://keane.li/?p=6667 Florence, I just can’t quit you. After an adventure in Northern Italy, Austria and Slovenia, I found myself in my favorite Italian city for the second time last year. I had already posted on many of my favorite places in Florence in my previous posts, yet, until this trip, I still hadn’t ascended the Duomo or […]

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Florence, I just can’t quit you. After an adventure in Northern Italy, Austria and Slovenia, I found myself in my favorite Italian city for the second time last year. I had already posted on many of my favorite places in Florence in my previous posts, yet, until this trip, I still hadn’t ascended the Duomo or the Campanile, nor had I been inside the Battistero. These are perhaps the most touristy of tourist things to do in the city, undoubtedly the “top attractions in Florence” (there’s a lil’ sum’n sum’n for the Google keyword crawlers #transparency).

Located in the Piazza Duomo (Cathedral Square), one finds the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral or simply the Duomo), the Campanile di Giotto (Giotto’s Bell Tower), the Battistero di San Giovanni (the Baptistery of Saint John or the Florence Baptistery) and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (the Museum of the Works of the Cathedral). A visit to all of them could easily fill up most of a day, and it would be a day well spent. The views from the top of the cupola (dome) of the Duomo and atop the Campanile are pretty impressive, and the museum is, well, air conditioned and also fairly interesting.

If you don’t have the all-inclusive Firenze Card and wish to visit all the attractions in Piazza Duomo, I highly recommend pre-booking tickets in advance so you can cut the lines. I ordered my tickets the day before and had plenty of timing options, though I visited during the off-peak season. If you want to reserve an entrance time to ascend the Duomo or Campanile, do it as soon as possible.

A few things to note:

  • If you get the complete pass for all attractions in Piazza Duomo, avoid reserving entrance times too close together. I visited the Museo in between the two climbs to give myself a bit of a break. You may also want to time your ascents to correspond with photogenic hours.
  • The Duomo itself is free. You do not need to buy a ticket to visit the Cathedral interior. And while the lines are pretty long during the day, they are short in the evenings (at least from my personal experience).
  • MOST IMPORTANT: If you have trouble ascending stairs or if you get freaked out by enclosed spaces, I highly recommend that you DO NOT attempt to go up the Duomo or Campanile. The former gets very tight at the top (the up path is the same as the down) and the latter is challenging at 414 steps. And as great as the Renaissance thinkers were, they did not, I’m sorry to report, include elevators.

Can’t sneak out of Piazza Duomo in time for a break? There are a few gems amongst the touristy restaurants lining the piazza. First of all, visit MOVE ON Firenze, a hip record store facing the Cathedral. Above their interior dining room, they have not only a large collection of vinyl but also a great view of the Duomo (see photo below with the dog sculpture). Next to MOVE ON is JJ Cathedral, a not-particularly-pretty pub that serves reasonably priced drinks and offers a direct view of the Duomo from the seats outside. Finally, Panini Toscani is a great place to familiarize oneself with a panino (a sandwich, one—not panini, plural) made with schiacciata (a Tuscan flatbread). It’s nowhere as good as All’antico Vinaio, widely regarded as the city’s best, but the staff are extremely friendly, and they’ll take the time to introduce each guest to the typical meats and cheeses of Tuscany (with samples). Note: Google Maps says this place is “permanently closed,” but Yelp and TripAdvisor do not.

If, ultimately, you aren’t able to see Florence from above in Piazza Duomo, don’t fret. These attractions provide interesting panoramas of Florence, but they’re hardly the best views of the city. Consider instead a visit to the Giardino Bardini (Bardini Garden) and the Giardini di Boboli (Boboli Gardens) to see Florence from across the river, or simply stick around the Ponte Vecchio during sunset. This one is by far my favorite view in all of Italy.

Finally, I left the city for a day to visit friends in Empoli, a small city in Tuscany. Notable attractions include the Chiesa della Collegiata di Sant’Andrea, a small church with a pretty faà§ade, the associated Museo della Collegiata di Sant’Andrea, a museum of sacred art, and the MUVE – Museo del Vetro di Empoli, a museum of glass. Landmarks include the Fontana di Luigi Pampaloni, a beautiful fountain near the aforementioned chiesa, and the Monumento di Dino Manetti e Carlo Rivalta, a statue in Piazza della Vittoria. At the end of the night, we went to a sushi buffet (don’t do it) and relaxed in a cool video game-inspired bar called Ottobit Art Lab in Montelupo Fiorentino.

It pays to know the locals.

Hover over photos (desktop) or press and hold (mobile) for photo descriptions. If you liked this post, follow me on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram for more photo updates!


View from the Top of Florence

View from the Top of Florence

View from the Top of the Florence Duomo, Campanile

View from the Top of the Florence Duomo, Campanile

View of the Florence Duomo from MOVE ON Firenze

View of Florence Duomo from MOVE ON Firenze

Faà§ade of the Florence Duomo

Man Walks Through the Mercato San Lorenzo

Piazza di Santa Maria Novella

Produce in the Mercato Centrale of Florence

Couple in Piazza Santa Croce

River Arno in Florence

Inside the Basilica di Santo Spirito

Karl Lagerfeld Visions of Fashion Exhibit in Palazzo Pitti

Ponte Vecchio at Sunset

Ponte Vecchio Ghosts at Night

La Belle Epoque French Market in Piazza di Santa Maria Novella

Jan Fabre Giant Gold Turtle Sculpture in Piazza della Signoria

The Rape of Polyxena Statue in the Loggia dei Lanzi

Carousel in Piazza della Repubblica at Night

EMPOLI

Monumento di Dino Manetti e Carlo Rivalta in Empoli

MUVE - Museo del Vetro di Empoli

Chiesa della Collegiata di Sant'Andrea in Empoli

Fontana di Luigi Pampaloni in Empoli

Shopping Streets of Empoli

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Ljubljana in the Heart of Slovenia – What to See, Eat, Do https://keane.li/2017/02/23/ljubljana-in-the-heart-of-slovenia-what-to-see-eat-do/ https://keane.li/2017/02/23/ljubljana-in-the-heart-of-slovenia-what-to-see-eat-do/#comments Fri, 24 Feb 2017 00:37:20 +0000 http://keane.li/?p=6658 How to build my perfect European town. Add to one part old world history a dash of chic modernity. Let it age into a unique culture. Drizzle in a beautiful river and sprinkle with romantic night lights. Top with an epic castle. Keep cool with comfortable weather and serve at reasonable prices. Order up: Ljubljana, […]

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How to build my perfect European town.

Add to one part old world history a dash of chic modernity. Let it age into a unique culture. Drizzle in a beautiful river and sprinkle with romantic night lights. Top with an epic castle. Keep cool with comfortable weather and serve at reasonable prices.

Order up: Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia.

After departing from the dreamy lake town of Bled, I was ready to switch back to urban adventuring. Ljubljana is the perfect transition between relaxation and city life, offering anything you’d want from a city without the chaos.

The best place to begin exploring Ljubljana is in Prešeren Square (Prešernov trg), the meeting point of several main streets where you’ll find the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation (Frančiškanska cerkev Marijinega oznanjenja), the Prešeren Monument (Prešernov spomenik), the Galerija Emporium (a department store, if you’re into that sort of thing) and the Triple Bridge (Tromostovje).

Crossing the Triple Bridge brings you to the Town Square (Mestni trg), in which sits the Fountain of the Three Carniolan Rivers (Vodnjak treh kranjskih rek), also known as the Robba Fountain (Robbov vodnjak), a fountain by Italian sculptor Francesco Robba, inspired by the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi in Rome’s Piazza Navona. Here you’ll also find the Ljubljana Town Hall (Ljubljanska mestna hiša), otherwise known as Magistrat, which you can visit for free. Finally, there’s the Ljubljana Cathedral (Ljubljanska stolnica), otherwise known as St. Nicholas’s Church (Cerkev sv. Nikolaja) and its beautiful interior.

In Vodnik Square (Vodnikov trg), located across the famous Dragon Bridge (Zmajski most) with its emerald beasts of legend, you can find an expansive piazza that hosts the Ljubljana Central Market (Osrednja ljubljanska tržnica). This is a great place to pick up some fresh produce or to have an affordable outdoor meal at one of the many street food vendors.

South of the Town Square is the Old Square (Stari trg), an area dense with restaurants and shops. Head farther down and you’ll reach the Upper Square (Gornji trg), a more peaceful area of the historic center. If you want to dine downtown but would like to get away from any crowds, this section of the city is a good bet.

As with any city with a river, you could simply walk along the banks of the Ljubljanica for some of the best views. Aside from the aforementioned bridges, there are also the Butchers’ Bridge (Mesarski most), a bridge with lots of odd sculptures and love locks, and the Shoemakers’ Bridge (Šuštarski most) or Cobblers’ Bridge (Čevljarski most), a bridge that offers great photo opportunities.

I should also mention Congress Square (Kongresni trg), a large square lined by eateries and nightlife locales. Pro tip: There’s a public restroom underneath.

To top off your adventure in the historic center (no pun intended), head up to Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski grad). The admission ticket gets you into the museums and the tower for an unobstructed view of the city. You can’t get such a view without ascending the tower (believe me; I tried), so if you want to see the city from above, you have to buy a ticket.

Ljubljana is a culturally rich city, and it offers a good number of museums. Of its offerings, I visited the National Museum of Contemporary History (Muzeju novejše zgodovine Slovenije) and the National Gallery of Slovenia (Narodni galeriji) to learn more about the history of the city and to see some fine art, respectively. I highly recommend both.

For more art and culture, visit the neighborhood known as Metelkova, an artists’ district completely covered with street art. I heard they have some fun parties here at night, though when I walked by, nothing seemed to be happening. (I guess not everyone wants to go crazy on a weekday night.)

To escape into some green, visit Tivoli City Park (Mestni park Tivoli), an expansive park in which you could spend the entire day. There are numerous paths to choose, so if you like hiking, plan a visit here.

Lovers of beer should check out the Pivnica Union Beer Brewery, where Union and Laško are brewed, the two predominant beers of Slovenia. The Union Experience is the brewery tour that leads guests through the brewery’s history and beer-making process, concluding in the brewpub where a wide variety of beers and typical Slovenian foods can be acquired. I visited on a weekday and was the only one on the tour, so, lucky me, I was alone with my guide, Tja (if you’re reading this, thanks!).

In terms of food, there’s plenty to try in Slovenia, and I’m probably not the best person to showcase the breadth of it. A popular street food is burek, an Eastern European savory puff pastry item filled with meats, vegetables or cheese. It’s both cheap and filling (read: really heavy). You can find them in most bakeries. For local sausages at reasonable prices, check out Klobasarna, a modern and casual eatery. Frks in Congress Square sells healthy wraps, burgers and salads. For desserts and coffee, check out Cacao Cafe for comfortable, riverside cafe-ing. Finally, if you’re looking to dine really cheaply, I’d recommend Restavracija Skriti kot, a no-nonsense tavern that’s popular with students. I had a steak here with an all-you-can-eat salad and two glasses of wine for about $15.

For nightlife, a friend recommended Pr’Skelet. It’s definitely a great place to let loose with a group, as they offer buy-one-get-one-free college-style cocktails and shots. If you’re looking for something less neon and underground, however, opt for one of the fancier locales along the river.

Looking for unique souvenirs? Visit Fox Boutique in the historic center, a little shop that sells handmade Slovenian gifts, or Flat, a shop offering higher end home and lifestyle items.

All of the above only scratches the surface of what Ljubljana truly offers, and it surely isn’t a complete representation of all the places I visited. It serves only as a starting point if you’re considering what to see first. If you’ve been to Ljubljana before and have a favorite attraction/restaurant/shop I haven’t mentioned, please let me know in the comments below.

Hover over photos (desktop) or tap and hold (mobile) for descriptions. Like this post? Follow me on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram!


View from Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski grad)
View from Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski grad)
View from Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski grad)
Inside Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski grad)
Ljubljanica River in Ljubljana Central District
Franciscan Church of the Annunciation (Frančiškanska cerkev Marijinega oznanjenja)
Prešeren Monument in Ljubljana
Galerija Emporium in Ljubljana
Ljubljanica River in Ljubljana Central District
Ljubljanica River and Ljubljana Castle
Along the Ljubljanica River in Ljubljana
Dragon Bridge (Zmajski Most) in Ljubljana
Inside Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana Central District
Fountain in Ljubljana Central District
Trubarjeva cesta in Ljubljana
Trubarjeva cesta in Ljubljana
Tivoli City Park (Mestni park Tivoli) in Ljubljana
Tivoli City Park (Mestni park Tivoli)
Tivoli City Park (Mestni park Tivoli)
Pivnica Union Brewery in Ljubljana
Pivnica Union Brewery in Ljubljana
Pivnica Union Brewery in Ljubljana
Pivnica Union Brewery in Ljubljana
Pivnica Union Brewery in Ljubljana
National Museum of Contemporary History (Muzeju novejše zgodovine Slovenije)
National Museum of Contemporary History (Muzeju novejše zgodovine Slovenije)
Metelkova Street Art in Ljubljana
Metelkova Street Art in Ljubljana
Metelkova Street Art in Ljubljana
Metelkova Street Art in Ljubljana
Metelkova Street Art in Ljubljana
Burek in Ljubljana
Pastries and Burek in Ljubljana
Ljubljanica River at Night

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Five Experiences You Can’t Miss in Bled, Slovenia https://keane.li/2017/02/07/five-experiences-you-cant-miss-in-bled-slovenia/ https://keane.li/2017/02/07/five-experiences-you-cant-miss-in-bled-slovenia/#comments Tue, 07 Feb 2017 18:21:04 +0000 http://keane.li/?p=6586 Imagine a beautiful, small town surrounding a lake. The water is pristine and the trees surrounding it are a vibrant green. High above sits a majestic castle overlooking the scene with a quiet grandeur. At the center of the lake is an island, and on this island is a church with a bell that grants […]

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Imagine a beautiful, small town surrounding a lake. The water is pristine and the trees surrounding it are a vibrant green. High above sits a majestic castle overlooking the scene with a quiet grandeur. At the center of the lake is an island, and on this island is a church with a bell that grants wishes…

Sound like a fairy tale?

This is Bled in Slovenia, a town surrounding Lake Bled. Visitors come here for the nature, to relax or try some adventure sports. And while Bled seems small, there are plenty of activities that could fill a week. I’ll summarize it down to five experiences you simply can’t miss.

Spend a day at Bled Castle

Bled Castle (Blejski grad) is a stronghold located high above Lake Bled. It’s Slovenia’s oldest castle, dating back to 1011, and one of the top attractions in the country. Reaching the entrance to Bled Castle requires a bit of a hike, but the walking path makes it a pleasant, if not tiring for some, climb. With the entrance fee (10€ for adults at the time of this post), you gain access to a stunning panoramic view of Bled, the castle museum, and various historic boutiques and eateries.

I particularly liked the printing shop, where they make a variety of cards and gifts utilizing old printing methods. There’s also an old cellar offering wine tasting, as well as a honey vendor where you can try some of Slovenia’s premier sweet product.

If you’re a fan of craft beer, the cafe in Bled Castle sells some local brews. I enjoyed the Mali Grad IPA with a table next to a view of Lake Bled below.

Ring the wishing bell on Bled Island

Bled Island (Blejski otok) is another popular draw for visitors. Apparently ringing the bell (some say thrice) inside the Church of the Assumption of Mary (Cerkev Marijinega vnebovzetja) grants you one wish. True or not, a trip out to Bled Island is an obvious must for anyone visiting Bled.

From various points along the shore, you’ll find the Pletna boats, 20-person boats of a design dating back to 1590, offering rides to the island. The process is as follows: find a boat with an oarsman (locations: Spa Park, Park Hotel, Guest House Mlino, the rowing center), ride to the island, explore for the allotted 30 minutes, then pay before riding back. It takes at least 20 minutes to reach the island by Pletna boat. You can also rent your own rowboat which would allow you to stay on Bled Island as long as you’d like. This may be the more cost-effective mode if there are at least two of you.

On the island, you’ll find the Church of the Assumption (small fee to enter), a cafe with very limited food items and a souvenir shop. There’s also a stand that serves mediocre gelato. I highly recommend bringing a snack if you think you’ll get hungry during this excursion.

Head for the hills

For those looking for the ultimate views (like the one in the photo above—I wasn’t shy about asking someone to take a photo for me after making the climb), set your sights on Mala Ojstrica and Mala Osojnica. These two hills offer the highest perspectives of Lake Bled.

From the heart of the city, it’s a bit of a walk to reach the path leading up to both Ojstrica and Osojnica. And while the hike isn’t difficult per se, there are plenty of loose rocks that can be slippery at times, so I wouldn’t advise it for those who have trouble walking or balancing. I’m relatively young and healthy, and even my street sneakers had trouble maintaining friction on some surfaces. If it’s dark or wet, pay extra attention to your path.

The photo above was taken on Mala Ojstrica. Because it was getting late (read: I was hungry and tired), I didn’t make it up Mala Osojnica, which is higher than Ojstrica. If you’d like to do both in the same day, I’d recommend that you start on the earlier side. Pro tip: I heard the sunrise view is spectacular.

For more detailed info on reaching the view points, check out this informative page by Slovenia Trips.

Hunt for the best cream cake

God save you if you come to Bled and leave without trying the Bled Cream Cake (Blejska kremšnita). This creamy, flaky, powdered-sugary dessert is the most popular food item for visitors to try. The Sava Hotel claims to have the original cream cake, though they also charge a lot for it. My Slovenian host recommended I try her favorite spot, a cozy bakery called Slaščičarna Zima. You can order a slice of cream cake here for a lot less than the fancier locales charge. Still, if you want to conduct thorough research (because science is important), you can try the cream cake at several places. Please report back in the comments below with your findings.

Bled also has a number of non-cake delicacies. My host recommended that I try the steak at Grill Babji Zob, a restaurant near the lake with a very pleasant patio. I ordered the grilled steak salad and had two small glasses of wine for less than $12. It’s a really cozy space with friendly service, and there were several of us comfortably dining solo outside. Recommended.

Relax

Bled is a wonderful town for all travelers because it offers something for everybody. If you want to do active sports, you can sign up for it at the activities centers. But what makes this lake town so wonderful is that you don’t really have to do anything at all. It feels enough just strolling along the shore, admiring the swans, watching the horse-drawn carriages pass by, discovering hidden sculptures and watching the sky change colors throughout the day…

Hover over photos (desktop) or tap and hold (mobile) for descriptions.


View of Lake Bled from Ojstrica

Bled Island and the Church of the Assumption

Bled Castle
Swan and Boat in Lake Bled

Horse and Carriage in Bled

St. Martin's Parish Church in Bled

View from Bled Castle

View from Bled Castle

View from Bled Castle

Bled Castle

Pivovarna Mali Grad IPA Overlooking Lake Bled from Bled Castle

Sculpture Along Lake Bled

Boats Headed to Bled Island

Church of the Assumption on Bled Island

Riding the Boat Back from Bled Island

Rainbow and Bled Castle

Hiking Path to Ojstrica and Mala Osojnica from Lake Bled

Hiking Path to Ojstrica and Mala Osojnica from Lake Bled

Bled Island and the Church of the Assumption

Bled Castle

Bled Cream Cake at Slaščičarna Zima

Ostarija-Restaurant Babji Zob in Bled

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Brezel, Beers and Bridges in Villach, Austria https://keane.li/2017/01/25/brezel-beers-and-bridges-in-villach-austria/ https://keane.li/2017/01/25/brezel-beers-and-bridges-in-villach-austria/#comments Wed, 25 Jan 2017 21:05:46 +0000 http://keane.li/?p=6559 It started to rain a day after I arrived in Villach, a small town in Austria near the Italian border. Having just arrived from a very muggy Udine, I was more than happy to spend some wet moments in the brisk chill. As many of you know, the music you choose on a trip can […]

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It started to rain a day after I arrived in Villach, a small town in Austria near the Italian border. Having just arrived from a very muggy Udine, I was more than happy to spend some wet moments in the brisk chill. As many of you know, the music you choose on a trip can stay with you forever. On this stop, I opted for Radiohead’s most recent album, A Moon Shaped Pool. Listen to “Glass Eyes” and note the travel-centric lyrics as you look at the photos below to experience Villach as I did.

Villach is an easy town to explore. The point is to relax and enjoy every centimeter of it. The heart of the city is the Hauptplatz (main square). Start here and make your way down the Bahnhofstrasse (principal street), across the Villach Draubrücke (Villach Bridge) over the Drava River, and on towards the Hauptbahnhof (central train station). This path will also take you from one of the town’s main churches to the other, from the Pfarrkirche St. Jakob (Parish Church St. Jakob) to the St. Nikolai Kirche (St. Nikolai Church). Another notable church, the Heiligenkreuz Kirche, sits to the east at the entrance to another bridge.

St. Jakob also offers a panoramic view of Villach from above. Ascend the Stadtpfarrturm, the tower directly across from the main entrance to the church, for a nominal fee. Be sure to time your visit for the best lighting and in accordance to the posted opening hours.

After getting a sense of the city visually, head to the Museum Der Stadt Villach (Museum of the City of Villach) to learn the history of the town. While displays are all in German, they provide a translated guidebook for the special exhibition.

One of the top attractions of Villach is the city itself. From the main square to the riverwalk, there’s beautiful nature, bridges and numerous statues to discover. If you want to witness more alpine wonder, head out of town to Villacher Alpenstrasse, a national park located approximately 13.5 kilometers (18 minutes by car) to the west. I didn’t have much time in Villach, so I wasn’t able to explore outside the city confines, but please let me know in the comments below if you’ve ever made the trip.

Of course, Austria is known for having great food. My standout favorites in terms of cuisine are likely dull picks for anyone familiar with German-Austrian culture: wienerschnitzel and apple strudel, of course, the Sachertorte, and brezel (“pretzel” for us Americans—I have a strange addiction to these). Last, but never least, there’s plenty of bier, bier, bier.

A great place to try typical Austrian dishes with the local beer is at the town’s brewery, Villacher Brauhof. For coffee and tea, I highly, highly, highly recommend the wonderful café Kaffeehaus Herr Vincent. Not only is the interior charming, but the service is very friendly and homey. For more local food options, wander around the main square and see what you can find (just ignore the McDonald’s).

Other attractions located outside the heart of the city, which I also did not get a chance to visit, include Landskron Castle (13 minutes by car or 36 minutes by public transit) and the Villacher Fahrzeugmuseum (Villach Automotive Museum; 10 minutes away by car/bus).

Finally, Villach is known for its thermal spas (such as the Kärnten Therme Spa), so check those out if you’re looking to relax.

Hover over photos (desktop) or tap and hold (mobile) to see photo descriptions… Hear the sounds of the Circus Berlin on my SoundCloud page.


Villach Hauptplatz (Main Square)

Villach Hauptplatz (Main Square)

Parish Church St. Jakob in Villach, Austria

Inside Villach Parish Church St. Jakob

Katholisches Pfarramt St. Nikolai Church in Villach, Austria

Drava River in Villach, Austria

Drava River in Villach, Austria

Harlequin or Jester Sculpture in Villach, Austria

Flags on the Villach Bahnhofstrasse Bridge

View of Villach from the Bell Tower of St. Jakob's Church

View of Villach from the Bell Tower of Parish Church St. Jakob

Graffiti in an Underpass and the Circus Berlin

Wienerschnitzel at Villacher Brauhof in Villach, Austria

Apple Strudel at Villacher Brauhof in Villach, Austria

Brezel at Villacher Brauhof in Villach, Austria

Statue of a Drinking Man in Villach, Austria

Villach, Austria in the Rain

Villach, Austria in the Rain

Villach Bahnhofstrasse Bridge at Night

Villach Hauptbahnhof (Main Train Station) in the Rain

Hotel Mosser at Night in Villach, Austria

Drava River at Night in Villach, Austria

Villach Parish Church St. Jakob at Night

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Tips for Visiting the Castello di Miramare from Trieste & Photos https://keane.li/2017/01/16/tips-for-visiting-the-castello-di-miramare-from-trieste-photos/ https://keane.li/2017/01/16/tips-for-visiting-the-castello-di-miramare-from-trieste-photos/#respond Mon, 16 Jan 2017 08:06:11 +0000 http://keane.li/?p=6449 The Castello di Miramare is one of the highlights for anyone visiting Trieste. The historic building (more a “mansion” than a “castle”) includes a museum and an expansive park and marine reserve located around it. It can easily be a full-day affair if one decides to enjoy the premises slowly. It’s so lovely, I chose […]

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The Castello di Miramare is one of the highlights for anyone visiting Trieste. The historic building (more a “mansion” than a “castle”) includes a museum and an expansive park and marine reserve located around it. It can easily be a full-day affair if one decides to enjoy the premises slowly. It’s so lovely, I chose to visit it twice on two separate trips to Trieste within the year. (For more info on what to do in the city, check out my past post on top attractions in Trieste.)

The Castello was completed in 1860, a commission by Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Hapsburg, who later became Emperor Maximilian I of Mexico (yeah, the history is fascinating). It became Maximilian’s primary residence, where he lived with his wife, Charlotte of Belgium (later known as Empress Carlota of Mexico). Needless to say, it’s a grand palace filled with stunning decorative art while offering splendid views of the Gulf of Trieste.

Aside from visiting the Museo Revoltella in the city, actually entering the Castello was something I missed during my first trip to Trieste. During my second visit, I decided (unwisely) to walk to Miramare from Trieste. And though it was a nice walk, it was very long. This leads me to my first tip: Buy bus tickets in advance, especially if you’re visiting on a Sunday when newspaper stands are closed. You can buy bus tickets at Trieste Centrale railway station. (Use Google Maps to find the best bus route to take.) You’ll want to buy a return ticket before departing as well, because there really aren’t any places to buy tickets on the way back. Many visitors don’t realize this and are forced to run the risk of returning without a ticket. I was told by one of the museum workers that this is so common the bus drivers are used to it, however you can still get a ticket if you’re caught, however unlikely.

On the way to the Castello, you’ll find a lovely promenade where locals sunbathe during sunny days. Numerous hotels and bars line this street. There are playgrounds, parks and nice views of both Trieste and the Castello. Within the premises of the Castello, you can find a gelato stand and a cafe, Caffè Massimiliano, selling coffee, snacks and drinks (they’re heavy handed while making a Spritz). Other than these options, there’s not much to eat around here, so pack some food for a picnic before you leave.

Tickets for the Museo Civico, the interior of the Castello, can be acquired easily at the ticket counter. There are also complimentary lockers where you can leave your things while you explore (bags and backpacks must be stored before entering). While their website says photography isn’t allowed, there were no rules forbidding photography when I visited, and I suspect there really aren’t any today.

I highly recommend taking your time exploring the surroundings after your visit to the museum. There are numerous paths and views to discover, as well as other attractions like the castelletto, the stables and a building dedicated to educating children on wildlife (I can’t recall the name). You can also hunt down the Sphinx and the United States Army memorial.

The best part about the Castello di Miramare is that most of what you can enjoy is completely free. For anyone looking to get some nature while saving some money, this is a royal thing indeed.

For more info, check out the website for the Castello di Miramare.


Sunbathers by the Gulf of Trieste

Castello di Miramare

Inside the Castello di Miramare

Inside the Castello di Miramare

US Army Memorial at the Castello di Miramare

Marina in the Gulf of Trieste

Parco del Castello di Miramare

Sphinx at the Castello di Miramare

Sunbathers by the Gulf of Trieste

Boat in Gulf of Trieste

Piazza Unità  d'Italia in Trieste at Sunset

Sunset from the Molo Audace in Trieste

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Exploring Udine and the Friuli Wine Country https://keane.li/2016/11/28/exploring-udine-and-the-friuli-wine-country/ https://keane.li/2016/11/28/exploring-udine-and-the-friuli-wine-country/#comments Mon, 28 Nov 2016 16:00:05 +0000 http://keane.li/?p=6378 Located far in Italy’s northeast, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is a unique region. Its proximity to the Austrian and Slovenian borders gives it a unique flavor respective of classic Italian cities like Rome or Florence. This is especially true of its capital city, Trieste, which I visited twice in this year alone. Similarly, Udine, FVG’s second largest […]

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Located far in Italy’s northeast, Friuli-Venezia Giulia is a unique region. Its proximity to the Austrian and Slovenian borders gives it a unique flavor respective of classic Italian cities like Rome or Florence. This is especially true of its capital city, Trieste, which I visited twice in this year alone. Similarly, Udine, FVG’s second largest city in terms of population, has its own style. Friuli, the area of which Udine is the historical capital, has its own distinct wine country and language (not dialect; language).

The Chiesa del Duomo, Udine’s main church, is a good starting point for exploring the city. From here, wander down Via Vittorio Veneto to the Piazza della Libertà , to the right of which one finds the Comune di Udine (city hall) and the Torre dell’Orologio (Tower of the Clock), and, to the left, the Loggia del Lionello, a nice loggia (a gallery/room with open sides) with a few historical items of interest within.

Up in the hills behind city hall is the Castello di Udine (Udine Castle), your one opportunity to see the city from up high. Inside the castle are the Civici Musei di Udine (Civic Museums of Udine), galleries hosted in the castle since 1906 that feature numerous artifacts and works of art related to the city. Outside, the Chiesa Santa Maria di Castello (chiesa means “church”) makes for some lovely photos.

Behind the castello and near the Giardin Grande, a park, is the Santuario della Beata Vergine delle Grazie. The grand faà§ade of this church holds an interior with designs no less striking. I found this church to be very particular, almost dark in a beautiful way. Perhaps it was the figure of a snow white Madonna garbed in dark robes with rays shooting out like swords.

Around the corner from the Loggia del Lionello is Palazzo Cavazzini, in which one finds the Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Udine (Gallery of Modern Art of Udine). The museum’s current location is relatively new (it was previously located much farther away from the city center. PRO TIP: Be sure a museum is still there before you walk to it).

Piazza Matteotti is a vibrant square where you can find restaurants for al fresco dining and drinking. If I had to recommend a place to chill, it would be here. At its western end is the Chiesa San Giacomo with its splendid interior of sculptures and paintings.

Into shopping? The town center is loaded with shops, particularly around Galleria Bardelli, a collection of retailers that includes H&M, Zara, La Feltrinelli (a great Italian bookstore chain), Sephora, Tiger (a store that sells every sort of weird thing) and more.

When your thirst grows, check out Osteria alle Volte, a small craft cocktail lounge that makes excellent drinks. Osteria da Teresina is a cozy tavern with patio seating and a nice selection of cheap small plates (popular with students, I’m told). For craft beer and wine, visit Ars Bibendi, a spacious bar where you can try a vast selection of local offerings to pair with free Wi-Fi.

A local quick-bite eatery I liked was Piadina Mia, where you can get piadine (flatbread sandwiches) as good as you’ll find in Emilia-Romagna, the region from which they originate. Farther away from the town center is Bella Napoli, a family-friendly pizzeria with a fiery oven and low prices even for Italy. For dessert, both Gelateria Fiordilatte and OGGI Gelato were excellent in my book, and I’ve become somewhat critical of my gelato.

Friuli is known for great wines. A trip to Azienda Vitivinicola Specogna for my own private tour and tasting quickly converted me to the region’s offerings. Violetta at the vineyard answered all our questions and graciously took the time to show us around. If you’re ever in the area, definitely see if you can pay them a visit. If anything, just being on the premises is lovely.

I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity of visiting another town nearby called Cividale del Friuli. The small city has plenty of charm to experience, from relaxing at a cafe like Caffè del Corso in Piazza Paolo Diacono to strolling across the Ponte del Diavolo to view the Natisone River, a waterway that flows between Italy and Slovenia. At Panificio Pasticceria Catarossi, one can sample local baked delicacies like strucchi, sweet bite-sized dough filled with pine nuts, hazelnuts, and currants and raisins blessed by grappa…

Or, as others like to call it, “rocket fuel.”

Have you been to Udine? Share your favorite places in the comments. Hover over photos (desktop) or tap and hold (mobile) to get info on the photos…


Chiesa del Duomo in Udine

Torre dell'Orologio in Udine

Colorful Buildings in Udine's Centro Storico

Parrocchia Beata Vergine delle Grazie

Castello di Udine

View of the City from the Castello di Udine

Chiesa di San Giacomo in Udine

Torre dell'Orologio in Udine

Loggia del Lionello in Udine

Streets of Udine at Night

Neon Signs in Udine's Centro Storico

Building and Street Lamp in Udine's Centro Storico

Craft Cocktails from Osteria alle Volte in Udine

View from Azienda Vitivinicola Specogna

Collection of Friulian Wine from Specogna

Rocca Bernarda in Premariacco

Rocca Bernarda in Premariacco

Cividale del Friuli and the Natisone River from the Ponte del Diavolo

Strucchi from Panificio Pasticceria Catarossi in Cividale del Friuli

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In Fair Verona (and Brescia) Where We Lay Our Scene https://keane.li/2016/10/20/in-fair-verona-and-brescia-where-we-lay-our-scene/ https://keane.li/2016/10/20/in-fair-verona-and-brescia-where-we-lay-our-scene/#respond Thu, 20 Oct 2016 15:00:22 +0000 http://keane.li/?p=6336 “Two households, both alike in dignity / In fair Verona, where we lay our scene / From ancient grudge break to new mutiny / Where civil blood makes civil hands unclean.” So begins Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, set in Verona in Italy’s northern region of Veneto, a city so beautiful it inspired the greatest of […]

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“Two households, both alike in dignity / In fair Verona, where we lay our scene / From ancient grudge break to new mutiny / Where civil blood makes civil hands unclean.” So begins Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, set in Verona in Italy’s northern region of Veneto, a city so beautiful it inspired the greatest of bards.

I left Venice for Verona a bit apprehensive because I tend to prefer larger, more chaotic cities. My first step into the massive Piazza Bra, arguably the country’s largest piazza, assuaged my fears; Verona is a city with much to offer.

Start your adventure in the city’s premiere piazza. Within Piazza Bra are a number of eateries, a fountain, the Arco di Verona (now a concert space), the Gran Guardia (an exhibition space in a historic palazzo) and Palazzo Barbieri (Verona’s town hall).

Head north through the busy shopping street Via Giuseppe Mazzini, where you’ll find a number of top international brands, leading you to the Piazza delle Erbe, another prominent piazza with restaurants and a market. Here rises the Torre dei Lamberti, an 84m-tall tower where you can get a great view of the city. Nearby are the Arche Scaligere, Gothic funerary monuments dedicated to the Scaliger family, the Lords of Verona who ruled from the 13th to the late 14th century. Next to the Arche is the Chiesa di Santa Maria Antica, a Romanesque church built in 1185.

Down past more shops along Via Cappello will lead you to perhaps Verona’s most popular attraction: the Casa di Giulietta (Juliet’s house). Pay some money to go up to her balcony or simply rub the right breast of her statue for good luck in love (apparently). Just bear in mind that Juliet was likely a product of pure fiction, so she probably never lived here. Makes you wonder who exactly is buried in the Tomba di Giulietta (Juliet’s Tomb). Regardless, her presence makes for good photo ops and souvenir sales.

Head north through the romantic historic center to find the grand Basilica di Sant’Anastasia, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Matricolare (the Duomo di Verona – the city’s main church) and Ponte Pietra, a wonderful bridge that crosses the Adige River. Continue beyond the ponte and up the hill to Castel San Pietro, where the views of the city rival those from the tower, and whatever romance you found within the city pales in comparison to the sunset.

West of the historic center is Castelvecchio, a historic castle and museum, and (much farther west) the Basilica di San Zeno. It was within the tomb of this basilica that Romeo and Juliet were wed. While entry requires an admission fee, the basilica is huge and an audioguide is included. Worth it!

Verona is full of great wine bars and restaurants. I mostly stuck to more affordable options. Gusto Piadinerie, located near Castelvecchio, is a good option for flatbread sandwiches. Focacceria Ponte Pietra, near Ponte Pietra (duh), is crazy cheap for focaccia. And Pizzeria Dai Butei satisfies those craving artisan pizza and craft beer; it’s some of the best pizza-by-the-slice you’ll find in Italy. For something different, Doner Kebab, in the heart of the historic center, serves an incredibly tasty and non-greasy kebab, the best in Verona, some say. Grab a cup of dessert at the historic Gelateria Savoia at the entrance to Piazza Bra. Their signature Gianduiotto da Passeggio combines hazelnut, gianduja (hazelnut chocolate originally from Turin) gelato, hot chocolate and whipped cream into a portable dessert. Finally, for drinks, Lady Verona in the Piazza delle Erbe is a nice place to sit outside with a relatively affordable (and strong) Spritz. For expertly made craft cocktails, visit Raffaello at Archivio. He made me a custom drink of various scotches and liquors, and it was one of the best cocktails I’ve ever had (and I’m a cocktail snob).

The beauty of Veneto, and being in Italy in general, is that it’s easy to take train trips to other cities for very little cost. I visited a friend in Brescia, in the region of Lombardy, and enjoyed this city as well. Notable stops include the Piazza della Vittoria, a major piazza inaugurated in 1932 with fascinating architecture, notably displayed by the Palazzo delle Poste (Post Office Building) and the Torrione (high tower). Piazza della Loggia features the Palazzo della Loggia and the Orologio Astronomico (Astronomical Clock). The Capitolium, otherwise known as the Tempio Capitolino, offers a look into the history of Ancient Rome; the remains of which are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Duomo di Brescia is a must-see church, of course, but the high point of the trip (pun intended) for me was the Castello di Brescia, a castle overlooking the city with a wonderful view.

Though perhaps the best moment I spent in Brescia was sitting in the cozy Tout Court Café with a friend, meeting for the first time over coffee, a reminder of what travel is truly about.

Hover over photos for descriptions (desktop) or press and hold to reveal info (smartphones)…


VERONA

Piazza Bra in Verona

Fountain in Piazza Bra

Arco di Verona

Roman Soldiers at the Arco di Verona

Colorful Houses in the Piazza delle Erbe

Column in Piazza delle Erbe in Verona

Arche Scaligere in Verona

Torre dei Lamberti in Verona

View of Verona from the Torre dei Lamberti

View of Verona from the Torre dei Lamberti

Casa di Giulietta (Juliet's House) in Verona

Juliet Statue in Verona

Casa di Giulietta (Juliet's House) in Verona

Basilica di Sant'Anastasia in Verona

Castelvecchio Bridge in Verona

Basilica di San Zeno in Verona

View from Ponte Pietra in Verona

View from Ponte Pietra in Verona

View from Ponte Pietra in Verona

Gianduiotto da Passeggio from Gelateria Savoia in Verona

Raffaello at Archivio in Verona

Archivio's Negroni in Verona

Chiesa degli Scalzi in Verona

View of Verona from the Castel San Pietro

View of Verona from the Castel San Pietro

Boy Looking Through Binoculars at Castel San Pietro over Verona

Sunset View of Verona from the Castel San Pietro

Night View of Verona from the Castel San Pietro

BRESCIA

Astronomical Clock in Brescia

Loggia Palace in Brescia

Duomo di Brescia

Il Capitolium / Tempio Capitolino in Brescia

Castello di Brescia

View from the Castello di Brescia

View from the Castello di Brescia

View from the Castello di Brescia

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