Know your options for getting a new passport

There are several ways to expedite your passport application/renewal. If your trip departure is between 7 to 11 weeks, you can do an expedited application/renewal of a passport by mail (takes 5-7 weeks). My focus today, however, will be the process for those who are traveling in under two weeks, what the State Department calls urgent travel service. You will need an in-person appointment at a US passport office for this method. When you’re done, you’ll get your passport on the same day or soon after, depending on the urgency.

There’s also life-or-death emergency service, which takes priority over all others. This process is a bit different than urgent travel service. Please see the State Department website regarding emergency travel for specific info regarding your situation.

Urgent travel service is for anyone needing a new passport for travel within two weeks or for those who need a foreign visa within 28 days. Yes, that’s specifically two weeks or 28 days, respectively. If you’re like me, realizing you need a new passport within three weeks of travel (but not a visa), you’ll have to wait a week to call. It seems weird that there’s nothing for people who need a new passport pretty urgently but not urgently urgently, but that’s the system.

Additionally, there are third-party services that partner with passport offices to get you your passport fast. I looked up the pricing for a particularly famous company when I began this whole process and was astounded to see the cost was over $800. These are fees imposed by the third-party service and not by the State Department. Aside from the unavoidable cost of getting/renewing a passport, the only extra cost from the State Department is the $60 fee for expedited service. Are third-party services worth it? Maybe, if you don’t live anywhere near a passport office and would need to travel to do everything yourself. Third-party services are expensive, but they’re an option that may work for some.

How to set up an appointment at a US passport office

First of all, walk-in appointments don’t exist, so don’t even try waiting for an opening. There’s also no way to schedule an appointment online anymore, thanks to all the scammers who took advantage of the appointment system during the pandemic.

There’s only one number to call for setting up an appointment, regardless of where you live in the United States:

1-877-487-2778

(If you are deaf or hard of hearing, call 1-888-874-7793 for TDD/TTY teletype services.)

Instructions tell you to call within 14 days of international travel or within 28 days if you need to apply for a foreign visa. I’ll focus on the former since that was my situation.

When you speak with a representative, they’ll ask you for the day of your flight. The day of travel must be within 14 days from the day you call for an appointment. So if your flight is on January 18, the earliest day you can call would be January 5. If you call earlier, they’ll tell you to call again. They are strict about this because the whole system is set up to get people their passports when they need them based on urgency.

Some inquisitive folks may ask if the representatives actually verify your flight info during the call. In my case, they didn’t. Still, I wouldn’t call early and lie about your flight date, as you may end up with a passport appointment too early, and they will check your travel info in person. Also, you’d be cheating and ruining the system for everyone else.

NOW HERE IS A TRICK YOU DEFINITELY SHOULD USE (caps and bold because it’s important)

The national call center for making an appointment opens from 8am to 10pm ET, Mon-Fri (closed on federal holidays). Please, please, please note that these hours are in ET. Eastern time. So if you’re calling from the West Coast, you’ll need to adjust your plan to accommodate for the different time zone.

Why is this important?

To avoid waiting in a phone queue, you’ll want to be the first person to get through when the call center opens. This could also get you a better chance at available appointments.

Does this mean call at 8am ET?

Absolutely not. It means calling at 7:58am ET and waiting at the last prompt in the automated system before inputting the command to get you to a representative. When the clock strikes 8am ET, punch in that last number and you’ll be connected to a rep as others are just starting to call.

As of this posting, this is how the automated menu works:

• For information in English, press 1; for Spanish, press 2
• For new passports and applications, press 1 (includes renewals)
• If you are traveling internationally within two weeks, press 2

So that’s 1-1-2 for English speakers calling the standard call center number. I recommend that you call on a weekend or after office hours (when the call center is closed so you don’t waste anyone’s time) to run through the automated phone system in case anything has changed. You can also practice the input timing (seriously) and get a feel for how the menus repeat themselves since you’ll need to wait at the last prompt. You may also want to listen to some of the other options in case they’re relevant to you.

So, again, dial the number a few minutes before the call center opens, then wait until it becomes exactly 8am ET before hitting that final 2. This has gotten me a human representative both times I’ve tried with zero wait.

The phone rep will ask for your travel date, then they’ll give you some options for an in-person appointment. I live in San Francisco, so I was given an appointment for a week later at the San Francisco Passport Agency. I’m not sure how things fare in other parts of the country, particularly in cities that don’t have bigger passport offices.

When your appointment is scheduled, they’ll give you a confirmation number on the phone, then they’ll send you an email with all the preparation info you need. I waited on the line to verify that I had received the email before ending the call, just in case they got my email address wrong. I’d recommend keeping your email open and refreshing to verify as well without wasting any of the rep’s precious time.

Preparing for the passport office appointment

The confirmation email from the call center includes all the instructions you need for preparing for the in-person passport office appointment. Despite what I read online, the passport office does accept credit cards and you can show proof of travel electronically. I would still recommend printing out your itinerary to save time, as well as to protect you against any loss of cellular service or a drained phone battery (yes, I’m that paranoid).

For the appointment, you’ll need your application/renewal form filled out, a proper photo attached to the form, as well as your travel itinerary proving you are traveling within two weeks. You’ll also need a form of ID (like a driver’s license) and a way to pay the passport fees. If you’re doing a name change, you’ll need to bring the right docs for that as well (instructions are in the confirmation email).

What to expect during your passport office appointment

My in-person appointment was at the San Francisco Passport Agency, so I can only speak on my experience there. I would imagine there are a lot of takeaways that might apply to an experience in any of the passport offices.

The instructions say to arrive 15 minutes early. I opted to be extra early, only to be told upon arrival at the office that I could only enter during my designated time. This confused me until I realized that there’s sometimes a wait just to enter the building due to security. Of course, it’s far better to wait than be late. I would recommend showing up early just as a contingency against any other delays that might occur.

Security in the building is pretty strict. It’s essentially airport security but maybe even more stringent. Jackets come off, and any metal on you has to be placed in the x-ray bins. During one of my visits, a line formed because a guy had shoes with metal in them. While that’s sometimes unavoidable and hardly his fault, it’s another example of how delays can randomly happen.

After passing through security, I took an elevator to the third floor. The passport office is right by the elevators, so there’s no trouble finding it. A security guard checked for confirmation numbers and appointment times, only allowing those with appointments at the current time to enter. Having to wait because I was early, I went to the second floor where there’s a seating area by a closed cafe, as well as large restrooms. I was pleasantly surprised that everything was clean and accommodating. Peaceful, even.

When my time had arrived, I returned to the passport office and entered. They told me to wait in a long line to be checked in. Only one person per group is allowed to stand in this line. And I was in this line for one hour, so if you have trouble standing for long periods, consider bringing someone who can stand for you.

After a full hour of standing in line, I approached an agent at the window with my confirmation number, completed form and proof of travel. She looked over my docs to make sure I had everything I needed. She then gave me a number and told me to wait to be called. Thankfully, there are seats for this part of the ordeal.

At this point, you can leave for the second-floor restroom if you need to (just be sure your number isn’t coming up soon). Also, note that phone calls aren’t allowed inside the office. They have to be made far from the entrance door too.

I should also mention here that everyone (absolutely everyone) in the building, from the security guards to the janitors to the window agents, is friendly and professional. Especially in the passport office, you get a real sense that they’re trying to help you out. This is definitely not a DMV experience but something far superior (no offense to the DMV).

I waited an additional hour and 15 minutes for them to call my number. Things moved quickly from that point on. I had everything prepared, so I spent only 15 minutes speaking with the agent. The total cost for me to renew my passport was $190: $130 for a new passport and a $60 fee for expedited processing (for those getting a passport for the first time, there’s an additional $35 execution fee).

The agent gave me a receipt of payment and a pick-up slip for my new passport. I wasn’t able to pick it up on the same day because my travel date was a week away. To give priority service to those leaving sooner, I would have to come back two days later. I live in the city, so this wasn’t a problem, but I can imagine how it could be inconvenient for those coming from farther away or for those who can’t take more time off from work.

Do NOT sign the pick-up slip at home; you’re supposed to sign it in front of an agent when you pick up your passport. Also, the slip gives you the option to authorize someone else to pick up your passport, which can be helpful.

Getting your new passport

For those who need to return to the passport office to pick up their new passport, it’s like your first visit except the line moves much faster. After a certain hour of the day, the only arrivals to the passport office are those picking up their passports. I waited in line for 30 minutes this time. The agent took my pick-up slip, verified my identity, had me sign the slip, then told me to make sure everything in my new passport looked correct. Take your time with this because you’re so close to the end and it would be a shame if you had to come back because your name was spelled wrong.

Celebrate!

Seriously, celebrate. If you can get your new passport in your hands before your travel date, celebrate. No one needs this stress, and you’ve just conquered it. We need more reasons to celebrate in life anyway.

Closing tips to ensure a less stressful passport application experience

• All the info in this post is accurate as of the date of posting, but you should still look over the State Department instructions on how to get a US passport fast, just in case
• Call for an appointment the first day you’re allowed, at a time before the call center opens, then wait until the exact moment the office opens to hit the last input command
• Print out all your documents to avoid any technical problems during your appointment
• Get to your appointment early in case there’s a line at security
• Bring a book to read, or bring a battery charger if you plan on using your phone a lot
• Plan for a long wait (my total time spent during my first visit was almost three hours, not counting the time spent because I arrived early, and this was during a non-peak travel period)
• Block out most of your day for your visit if you can (it’s a luxury to do so, I know, but it alleviates a lot of the stress of waiting if you’re not urgently itching to do something else)
• Know that everyone working at the passport office is there to help you get what you need (and they work very hard), so be kind and respectful

I hope at least some of this info was helpful to you. Having to apply for or renew a passport in a hurry is incredibly stressful, and I still feel your pain. If you have any questions regarding the last-minute passport application process, please do not hesitate to leave a comment below. If this was helpful, consider following me on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook for more travel-related posts. Good luck!

The post How to Get/Renew a US Passport Fast first appeared on Keane Li.

John Chinaman. Jake. Celestial. Yellow-skin. Chink. Many less-than-preferable words were used to describe the Chinese. Spat upon by many, they were however seen as invaluable to the Central Pacific tycoons who employed them. Hard-working, rarely drunk, seldom sick, paid less… Yet, despite their contributions, many of their histories are lost. When we see their faces in photographs, we see ghosts; we don’t know their names, we don’t know their stories.

One of the most notable things to keep in mind is how nativist (read: racist) forces of the era tried to paint the Chinese railmen as a coerced workforce. While there were many atrocities committed against them, the Chinese who worked for the Central Pacific Railroad weren’t slaves. They chose to leave home for work and better pay, much like immigrants do today. (Much can be said of the fact that they were paid less than the white men who did the same jobs, but the pay was still substantial compared to what they would’ve earned back home.) In true gaslighting fashion, the nativists who equated the Chinese to slaves pretended to care but really only wanted to vilify their hiring and push them out of the country.

And what of the industrialists? Leland Stanford played into the nativist sentiment when he was governor of California, but he (not surprisingly) praised the Chinese when they served him well during his tenure as the president of the Central Pacific. His mood change wasn’t unique, as the nation itself seemed to celebrate the Chinese for their work during the railroad’s completion. It wasn’t until after, when the Chinese and white former railmen went off to compete for the same jobs, did the worst of the violence take place.

A notorious example can be found in the history of Truckee, California. Once home to a healthy population of Chinese workers, the town drove them out in the 1880s using a technique of exclusion so effective it became known as “The Truckee Method.” Charles McGlashan, founder of the Truckee Anti-Chinese Boycotting Committee and the head of the local newspaper, later toured the state promoting this method. Imagine having to be his opening act.

Clearly, there’s a lot of history and nuance to uncover, but what interested me most was how the Chinese departed their predominantly rural homes for jobs in America. Many left behind bloodshed, as banditry and ethnic wars plagued the region exporting the majority of the laborers. And while we often view them as a homogenous workforce today, they were really individuals with their own reasons to leave, their own traumas and their own families left behind.

This is what inspired me to write my novel, The Bamboo Brothers. I wanted to tell a story that gives the reader a sense of what it might’ve been like to leave home, travel across the Pacific, and toil in the American West from the frigid Sierra Nevada to the deserts of Nevada and Utah. While it’s a work of fiction, all the historical elements are true.

Two brothers witness their bucolic lives in rural China upended when bandits destroy their village. Forced to flee, they enlist as railroad workers and follow an exodus of Chinese laborers to California. Thoughts of returning home accompany them as they endure the foreign and often brutal conditions of the American frontier. Little do they know that the troubles of their homeland have also emigrated to find them in the new world, splitting them apart and making them question what it means to find “home.”

At the heart of it is a coming-of-age story following the younger brother as he navigates the emotional journey of losing his family, leaving home and coming to America. It deals with the immigrant experience, family bonds and the universal struggles that none of us can escape, regardless of our skin color.

The post The Bamboo Brothers – A Story of the Chinese Who Connected America first appeared on Keane Li.

Here are a few photos I took. You can view my full SF Pride Parade 2019 photo collection on my Flickr page, where you should definitely add me!

Like what you see? Let’s connect on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter!

The post Photos from the 2019 San Francisco Pride Parade first appeared on Keane Li.

In the novel, young Johnny Tremain (or “Johnny Deformed,” as Bart Simpson lovingly calls him) suffers an injury working as a silversmith’s apprentice. Losing his supposed calling in fashioning shiny things, he eventually works for a Boston newspaper and becomes a spy (the natural second choice of former enthusiasts of the decorative arts) for the revolutionary group Sons of Liberty. As readers, we are propelled into the burgeoning conflict that would become the American Revolution, through the eyes of a fictional protagonist who lived through the times.

I add this preface to illustrate what it feels like to travel through New England today. As some of America’s oldest and most important cities, there’s a profound sense of history here. A trip farther north into coastal Canada provides an opposing viewpoint, a historical perspective from the other end of the conflict, one no less fascinating.

My trip began in Newport, Rhode Island, a town with a small and idyllic main street, a classic scene of old America. The city’s chief attractions are the Newport Mansions. While most of the renowned structures were built in the 1800s by the wealthy Vanderbilt family (of which respectable CNN newscaster Anderson Cooper is a member), the Preservation Society of Newport County also includes the Arnold Burying Ground and Hunter House. Arnold Burying Ground serves as the burial place for a former governor who was also a relative of the infamous Revolutionary War traitor of the same name. Hunter House formerly belonged to a loyalist during the Revolution, Colonel Joseph Wanton Jr., before he fled to Canada.

Two major mansions here are Marble House and, the most famous one of all, The Breakers. I enjoyed the visit, perhaps even more than visiting Versailles in France. Maybe it’s because the mansions here are more contemporary, making it easier to relate to the residences. They felt more like, as they were, homes.

Boston, Massachusetts is undoubtedly the birthplace of the American Revolution. From legendary stories like the Boston Tea Party and Paul Revere’s Midnight Ride, this small but significant city was the host of some of America’s most remarkable stories. The city is filled with Revolution-era history, most easily enjoyed by following the Freedom Trail, a walking path taking visitors past the city’s many monuments and historic locations. Top attractions in Boston include the Paul Revere Statue, the Paul Revere House, Old North Church, Granary Burying Ground (where patriots like Samuel Adams, John Hancock and the aforementioned Revere are interred), the Boston Tea Party Ships and Museum, and Faneuil Hall Marketplace and Quincy Market, just to name a few.

To the north, Boston’s North End district is great for Italian food and pastries (the famous spot being Mike’s Pastry for cannoli). To the west, the expansive park Boston Common is fantastic for a stroll. Here you’ll find the Robert Gould Shaw Memorial, dedicated to the American Civil War colonel who led the country’s first all-black regiment, as depicted in the epic film Glory. (I mention this because it’s one of my favorite films.)

What Bar Harbor, Maine lacks in Revolutionary War history, it makes up for in lobster rolls and blueberry ale (it’s a more-than-fair trade). First settled by Europeans in 1763, the city became a place known for lumbering, shipbuilding, agriculture and, notably, fishing. The compact town is easily walkable, full of shops and restaurants, and offers natural attractions like the Land Bridge to Bar Island, a sand bar walking path that appears by whim of the tide. Acadia National Park and Mount Desert Island are also a notable attractions for nature lovers. For an affordable but delicious lobster roll, pastries and local beer, check out Adelmann’s Deli & Grill.

Saint John, in Canada’s New Brunswick province, is the oldest incorporated city in Canada and the country’s third-largest port. The city was transformed into a major settlement by Loyalists fleeing Massachusetts during the Revolution. Aside from its history, Saint John is also known for its natural wonders, such as the Stonehammer UNESCO Global Geopark and the Reversing Falls, a unique phenomenon where the water from the Saint John River flows in opposing directions as it enters the Bay of Fundy.

Last but not least, there’s Halifax, the capital of the province of Nova Scotia. With a stunning waterfront, a lively city and a grand fort, this major economic and governmental center offers plenty to experience. Historic ships and local shops line the Halifax Boardwalk, making it a lovely walk for a sunny day. Within the urban center, the Halifax Public Gardens is a Victorian-era look at nature, an interesting juxtaposition to the expansive Halifax Common, Canada’s oldest public park. In between the two sits a remarkable landmark of history, the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site. The citadel dates back to 1749 when it was called Fort George. It received a major upgrade during the American Revolution with the fear of a possible American or French attack. It was renovated yet again during the War of 1812, when the United States and England went to war. More recently, the site served as headquarters during the World Wars.

The American Revolution is long gone, and we’ve had plenty of atrocious wars to keep our memories filled in the meantime. Still, as William Faulkner once wrote, “The past is never dead. It’s not even past.” History remains with us beyond the brick and stone, alive and well should we choose to see it.

Hover over photos (desktop) or tap and hold (mobile) for descriptions. If you like what you see, consider following me on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.

NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND (USA)

BOSTON MASSACHUSETTS (USA)

BAR HARBOR, MAINE (USA)

SAINT JOHN, NEW BRUNSWICK (CANADA)

HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA (CANADA)

The post Exploring Colonial History in New England and Canada first appeared on Keane Li.

Settled by the French, ceded to the Spanish, turned back over to the French and eventually sold by Napoleon to the United States in the Louisiana Purchase of 1803, one can get a sense of the city’s diverse background from the change in management alone. Add upon this the culture brought over by the enslaved Africans and the influence of the Native Americans and Caribbeans, and you’ve got Creole, a stew of diverse ingredients not unlike the city’s beloved gumbo.

I’ve been fascinated with New Orleans ever since I was a kid. It is, after all, the birthplace of jazz, a melting pot of cultures and cuisines, a place of remarkable architecture, and a city drenched in both that laissez-faire romance and mournful macabre.

My first trip to New Orleans was in 2007, just two years after Hurricane Katrina devastated the city and much of the Gulf Coast. The city had yet to fully recover, but it was vibrant nonetheless. My most recent visit, over ten years later, revealed a New Orleans long restored. Seeing such a magical place thriving is a beautiful thing.

While New Orleans is a big city with much to offer outside the French Quarter and surrounds, this post will focus primarily upon areas I’m familiar with, where travelers would most likely visit. If you’ve got any notable additions, kindly include them in the comments below.

GETTING AROUND NEW ORLEANS

The areas most travelers visit are easily accessible by foot, which is great for burning off the excessive calories you can’t and won’t want to avoid. For those who’d rather not walk, the historic streetcars offer rides at $1.25 fares (at the time of writing), and you can pay onboard or via the RTA GoMobile app. Additionally, Jazzy Pass 1-, 3- and 21-day unlimited ride passes can be purchased for $2, $9 and $55 respectively. Streetcars run along Canal Street, St. Charles Avenue (the really historic line), the riverfront, Loyola Avenue to the Union Passenger Terminal (for Amtrak, Greyhound, Megabus, local NORTA buses), and Rampart Street to the St. Claude Arts District, an older neighborhood of independent art galleries and lots of history. For longer distances, Lyft and Uber are available as well.

Most visitors will likely stay in or around the French Quarter (otherwise known as the Vieux Carré; see map above), the district where all that touristy stuff you see on TV happens. Simply familiarize yourself with the major streets and you’ll pretty much never get lost. There’s Bourbon Street, of course, the party street blaring country rock with all the neon Coors Light signs. Parallel to it is Royal Street, the pretty street with all the boutiques where live blues can often be heard at night. Decatur Street runs near the riverfront, cutting between Jackson Square, the heart of the French Quarter, and Congo Square, the former hang-out spot for slaves where they say the music of New Orleans was born. Along the riverfront, one finds the peaceful Woldenberg Riverfront Park and the huge Outlet Collection at Riverwalk mall. River cruises are offered by both the historic Steamboat Natchez and the Paddlewheeler Creole Queen. The Audubon Aquarium of the Americas is located here as well.

The unmistakable 2 Canal Street (the really tall building formerly known as the “ITM Building”) and Harrah’s Casino sit at the end of Canal Street, a major boulevard that runs along the southwestern border of the French Quarter, separating it from the Central Business District (which some, but not all, people call “downtown”).

South of the Central Business District, across Poydras Street, on which the Mercedes-Benz Superdome is found, are the hip, chilled-out Arts District and Warehouse District, where one finds museums like the popular National World War II Museum, the Louisiana Children’s Museum and the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Chic restaurants like Emeril’s, Emeril Lagasse’s flagship restaurant (BAM!), and Cochon are also located in this area.

Heading south past the Warehouse District leads you to the Lower Garden District and, subsequently, the Garden District, neighborhoods that are “picturesque,” for lack of a less cliché term. With its historic mansions, the famous Commander’s Palace restaurant and Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 (one of the city’s oldest cemeteries), a visit to the Garden District would be well worth your while. Stick to Magazine Street on your journey here and you’re sure to see a lot of stuff along the way.

NEW ORLEANS ON A BUDGET

What to see and hear

I suppose it would make the most sense to begin at Jackson Square, where one finds the St. Louis Cathedral. Constructed in 1718, it’s the oldest cathedral in the United States. Admission is free and tours are provided “when available” by volunteer docents. A self-guided tour brochure can be acquired for a donation of $1. Next door is the Louisiana State Museum – The Presbytère, a gallery offering a look into the history and culture of the city ($6 admission for adults). After your visit, take a stroll around the square to admire all the eclectic artwork being sold by local artists.

Near the end of Decatur Street sits the Old U.S. Mint, a historic building hosting free museums where visitors can admire an impressive collection of vintage coins, old maps, local crafts, photography and numerous other exhibitions. It’s in here where you’ll find the New Orleans Jazz Museum, a branch of the Louisiana State Museum featuring collections and exhibits that showcase jazz history. The Performing Arts Center on the third floor hosts live music and theatrical performances, as well as educational panels. Check out the Music at the Mint calendar for upcoming live shows, many of which are free, sponsored by the New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park. Additionally, you can check out the National Park Service’s calendar for a PDF of events taking place at the Mint and also at the Dutch Alley Artist’s Co-op, an artist’s co-op that I’ll mention later.

The aforementioned jazz park is free as well. Located northwest of the French Quarter next to Louis Armstrong Park, the New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park is a great place to start a self-guided tour through the history of jazz. Learn more about how to pick up a brochure or download their guide on the park website.

One cannot speak of music and New Orleans without mentioning the Preservation Hall, perhaps the most famous of venues for traditional New Orleans Jazz. Founded in 1961, it’s devoted to preserving the local sound. The Preservation Hall Jazz Band is a renowned group that also tours the country (coincidentally they were in San Francisco last weekend). The Preservation Hall hosts three shows (M-W) or four (Th-Su) per night, all ages welcomed, at $15 (Su-Th) or $20 (F-Sa). Get there at least 30 minutes before the show and bring cash for tickets.

New Orleans is the city of live music, and it really is everywhere. A casual stroll down Royal Street will unveil a world of talented musicians, from mid-size ensembles to solo virtuosos. Additionally, Café Beignet at Musical Legends Park (the coffee chain’s Bourbon Street location) offers live music at the affordable price of a cup of coffee or a plate of beignets, those renowned lightly puffed doughnuts doused with powdered sugar.

Undoubtedly, the riotous bars along Bourbon Street offer a more wild sort of music, though jazz can be found here as well. I’ve always had a soft spot for Maison Bourbon, a great bar for free live jazz and blues with a relaxed crowd.

Getting out of the French Quarter is a great idea for seeing beyond the touristic heart of New Orleans. A walk I particularly enjoyed was following Magazine Street from Canal Street through the Warehouse District to the Garden District, checking out the sights, then going up north to St. Charles Street to return to the Central Business District. The Garden District is especially wonderful because it offers a different vision of New Orleans from the French Quarter. It was here that the wealthy Americans lived during the 19th century, erecting their opulent antebellum mansions in the Italianate, Greek Revival and Victorian styles, away from the Europeans and Creoles of the French Quarter. If you make it here, check out this free self-guided walking tour to explore the historic buildings.

What to eat and drink

If you visit New Orleans without a desire to eat, I highly recommend you rethink your life goals. The city is a foodie paradise of diverse culinary delights. There’s gumbo, of course, that okra-thickened southern Louisianan stew; jambalaya, seasoned rice with blackened meats and vegetables; étouffée, a smothered rice entrée with seafood (notably shrimp or crawfish); boudin, a typical sausage; the po’ boy, a Louisianan sandwich of meat on baguette; red beans and rice; and Gulf oysters, just to name a few. You can find most of these in a majority of restaurants in the city.

For no-nonsense Cajun cooking, my favorite spot is Mother’s Restaurant. I first came here in 2007 when it was half its current size, back when customers supposedly had to know exactly what they wanted before approaching the counter lest unhappiness ensue. Now the restaurant has an additional dining area and the patience and customer service of a saint, not to say it was bad before. This restaurant boasts that it cooks up the “world’s best baked ham.” It’s pretty damn good. I recommend coming here not only for a full-plate meal but also for lunch to try their sandwiches. The Ferdi Special po’ boy is divine, with tender ham and roast beef, topped with the “debris” of beef, those pan leftovers that stew in their own juices. The fried chicken is also some of the best I’ve ever had. Prices range from $11-15 for most items (more for seafood), which, for the quality and quantity, ain’t bad.

Coop’s Place is another down-to-earth establishment worth considering for sampling local dishes. Half dive bar and half dining hall, Coop’s Place serves up fried seafood, fried chicken, fried other things, sandwiches and pasta dishes. Try the Coop’s Taste Plate for a sampler of seafood gumbo, shrimp creole, Cajun fried chicken, red beans and rice, and rabbit and sausage jambalaya ($13.95). For libations, well drinks are $5 and, if my memory serves me properly, a Sazerac was only $8.

Central Grocery & Deli is a must-visit for their muffuletta sandwich. The original owner of this Italian deli, Salvatore Lupo, invented the sandwich in 1906 by filling round Sicilian sesame bread (also called muffuletta) with mortadella, salami, ham, mozzarella, provolone and marinated olive salad. Yum.

Another sandwich shop worth checking out is Johnny’s Po-Boys. They served the most delicious fried oyster po’ boys I’ve ever had in 2007 and they serve them still. The fried catfish po’ boy is also really good.

On the quieter end of Royal Street sits a nondescript mini-market with a deli inside called Verti Marte. It’s a popular place for huge po’ boys, namely their All That Jazz sandwich. While it runs well over $10, it’s a monster that’s full of hearty calories (and surprisingly messy, so get some napkins). The more modest sandwiches are cheaper, so opt for those if you’re watching your budget or waistline. With the exception of a small bench outside, there’s no place to sit and eat here, so seek another chair or find a friendly bar.

If you make your way to the Garden District along Magazine Street, stop into District: Donuts Sliders Brew for craft coffee, pastries, “croquenut” doughnut sandwiches and delicious sliders. It’s a comfortable eatery with a friendly staff, the perfect place for a breather.

The French Market hosts numerous food stands. These options would be cheaper than most restaurants as well, plus it’s nice to eat outside on a sunny day. A weekly farmers market held every Wednesday from 1-5 p.m. is also worth checking out, especially since there’s live entertainment too. Check out the French Market events calendar to learn more about their food-related events.

For something sweet, check out the famous Café du Monde, a coffeehouse serving New Orleans-style coffee (with chicory added) and the delicious beignet. It’s really for the latter that people come here. Each order comes with three beignets, so it’s easily shareable. Keep in mind that the café never closes, so if you’re having trouble finding a table, come back during non-coffee-drinking hours. I once got beignets after midnight in a matter of seconds.

A trip to New Orleans isn’t complete without at least a small sampling of the sweet candy known as the praline (pronounced “PRAW-leen,” and no other way, in New Orleans). Southern Candymakers is a good place for this, as they make a wide variety of flavors. Cheap, delicious and portable; the perfect snack for a budget traveler.

If, for whatever reason, you choose to remain in your hotel room, you can nurse that hangover (let’s be honest) with food from Rouses Market, a grocery store with prepared foods and lots of local offerings. Whether you need single bottles of beer or rattlesnake meat, you can find it here. Pick up local spices at a fraction of the cost of the nearby tourist shops. During Mardi Gras, you can find the famous King Cake here.

New Orleans is the birthplace of many great (and some not-so-great *cough* Hurricanes) cocktails, namely the Sazerac, which many believe to be the world’s first mixed drink. Prices and quality range throughout the city. For example, The Sazerac Bar in The Roosevelt invented and still offers the famous drink for a not-modest $17. No doubt drinking it here is an experience, but you can also find it throughout the city for much less. For cheaper drinking in the French Quarter, check out Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, one of the oldest bars (it’s still lit by candlelight!), and the “oldest structure” hosting a bar, in the United States. For a solid dive, check out The Chart Room. If tropical cocktails are your thing, give Port of Call a chance. If you can make it out of the French Quarter to the Mid-City neighborhood, Twelve Mile Limit is a popular joint for their well-made cocktails running $8 and under.

You could also just stick to Bourbon Street takeaway cocktails.

(Unless you’re diabetic.)

If you’d like to avoid the craziness of the French Quarter, check out Frenchmen Street just off the northeast border. d.b.a. is a good bar to check out for beer, wine, spirits and free-to-stupid-cheap live music.

Where to shop

Let’s face it: the French Quarter, as beautiful and historic as it may be, is a tourist trap. Most of the souvenir stores here sell overpriced crap. I can get the same Café du Monde coffee in a can more cheaply at the local Chinese market in San Francisco than it costs at Café du Monde itself. And you really don’t need that “I got Bourbon-faced on shit street” shirt, do you?

But we collectively digress and move on, for there are things worth perusing. Ironically, the tourist market has some affordable finds if you search for them. The French Market houses numerous vendors of all sorts, selling a variety of goods at a synonym-of-variety of prices. And since bargaining is a thing here, you can score prices even lower than what’s listed.

New Orleans is also known for the spooky stuff (hey, Anne Rice). Famous shops such as Marie Laveau’s House of Voodoo, Reverend Zombie’s Voodoo Shop and the Boutique du Vampyre sell all things related to voodoo and the occult. Catering mostly to tourists these days, they are still worth checking out if only to find that unique gift. Additionally, the tranquil Hex Old World Witchery provides readings by appointment while offering items for the Wiccan in need.

I mentioned Dutch Alley Artist’s Co-op earlier, and while the crafts sold in this co-op aren’t necessarily cheap, many are beautiful works of art made by local artists. Similarly, James H. Cohen & Sons, one of my favorite shops, on Royal Street sells antique coins and war memorabilia. Opened in 1898, this family-run antiques shop is the real deal. I once purchased a Roman coin from the reign of Constantine here. While Dutch Alley and Cohen & Sons may not be budget friendly as shops, they really are affordable when you think of them as free “museums.” (Because perspective is everything.)

Where to unwind

Eventually everyone needs a break. The French Quarter offers a number of places to get away from the chaos of the city streets. Louis Armstrong Park is a wonderful green plot for a stroll. Populated with statues of great jazz musicians, the peaceful park also features a big lagoon and lots of bridges. (The only thing it doesn’t seem to have is a restroom.)

My favorite area to relax is the riverfront. Woldenberg Riverfront Park runs along the Mississippi River, offering 16 acres of nature. Strolling past the historic boats docked along the river, one arrives at the Spanish Plaza, near the outlet shops. This quiet square, dedicated by Spain in 1976, memorializes the country’s shared past with New Orleans. The seals of the provinces of Spain surround the fountain.

Oddly, one of the nicest places to sit and relax is in the mall, specifically the patio outside the food court in the Outlet Collection at Riverwalk. With a view of the river and drinks available inside, it’s not a bad place to spend a few afternoon hours.

If you’d really like to get away, take the $2 ferry to Algiers. Operated since 1827, the Algiers Ferry takes pedestrians and bicyclists from the end of Canal Street to Algiers Point, located across the Mississippi River. The Jazz Walk of Fame (free audio-guided tour here) and the Algiers Historical Society await visitors on the other side.

I hope this longer-than-anticipated post shared some of the beauty of New Orleans while offering useful budget-friendly tips for visiting the city. If you have any questions or advice of your own, please leave them in the comments below.

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Yee-haw!

The post New Orleans on a Budget – Free Guides, Cheap Eats & Live Music first appeared on Keane Li.

Also check out my photos of the Honolulu City Lights in 2014 for a look at other installations that may not have been present this year.

Merry Christmas!

The post Christmas in Paradise – Honolulu City Lights 2016 first appeared on Keane Li.

The capital city of Texas is one revered by many San Franciscans. Like Portland, Austin is hailed as a less costly alternative to our city, yet it offers much of the hip lifestyle and progressive thought with which we’ve grown accustomed. Portland and Austin both claim to be “weird.” San Franciscans are also pretty weird. I suppose we endeavor to be weird together.

If you’re visiting Austin for the first time, I’d recommend starting your adventure in Downtown Austin on Congress Avenue, the city’s central stretch. Here you’ll find the Texas State Capitol, an impressive historic building that’s worth a visit, particularly because it’s free but also because it’s architecturally stunning. Slightly north, there’s the Bullock Texas State History Museum which I highly recommend if you don’t know much about Texas history. The nearby Blanton Museum of Art has a superb permanent collection, as well as amazing exhibits (of Goya, when I visited). Check the websites for both museums to see when they have their free days. The Capitol building and the two museums can be enjoyed thoroughly within the same day.

Austin offers something for any traveler, whether you prefer culture, dining or outdoor adventures. It was here that Alamo Drafthouse, the cinema offering food and drink, was birthed. And Austin is surrounded by nature and all its gifts, from horseback riding (I went horseback riding for the first time) to river tubing. Within the city itself, the peaceful Ladybird Lake Hike and Bike Trail along the Colorado River is worth a visit if you’re looking to unwind.

Reputation precedes Austin in two culinary forms: barbecue and tacos. The city has arguably some of the best of both in the country. It goes without saying that the nationally famous Franklin Barbecue, La Barbecue and The Salt Lick are worth visiting. (Of the three, we chose Salt Lick as the wait wasn’t as long, though it’s located in Driftwood, outside of Austin.) I also really liked Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que, located in Downtown Austin, as there was barely a line and their brisket dissolved in my mouth. For tacos, I thoroughly enjoyed Torchy’s Tacos, no doubt insanely popular with most other visitors as well. A lesser-known spot is El Taquito. There was no wait at the East Riverside location and everything about the restaurant was very down-to-earth, a nice breather from all things trendy. Though I live in San Francisco, where we have our fair share of quality Mexican restaurants, I can safely say that the taco game in Austin is stronger.

Austin is a city renowned for its live music scene; it’s in this city that South by Southwest and Austin City Limits, two major music festivals, take place each year. This is particularly evident in the Sixth Street Historic District, the city’s most famous nightlife area, nicknamed “Dirty Sixth” for the row of riotous bars along Sixth Street offering cheap drinks and crazy times. It’s essentially the Bourbon Street of Austin. One of my favorite bars, Easy Tiger, happens to be along this stretch, though safely at the far eastern end by Interstate 35. Here you can grab a pint of local craft beer, a delicious $4 pretzel and sit by Waller Creek. I’d say it’s “picturesque,” but that’s another travel writing cliché.

I much preferred the atmosphere along East Sixth, the section of Sixth Street east of I-35. From the dive bars to the cocktail lounges to the outdoor beer gardens, this area felt a bit more adult. Some venues I really liked were Shangri-La (a cheap dive bar with an outside area), East Side Show Room (an awesome cocktail bar since closed but reopening as Ah Sing Den by the same team) and the Yellow Jacket Social Club (a popular bar with tons of outdoor space).

If you’re sticking to Downtown Austin, you’ve got to check out The Roosevelt Room for their budget-loving cocktail happy hour. HandleBar features an upstairs patio with games, a great place to catch the sunset over the city. Fadó Irish Pub is ideal for sports lovers (I watched the Italy vs. Germany Euro 2016 match here and it was nicely packed). If you’re craving a classier experience, check out the bar in the historic Driskill Hotel, a gorgeous building constructed in 1886. Need caffeine? Houndstooth Coffee, a craft coffee establishment located at the base of the stunning Frost Bank Tower, is a must-visit café for coffee lovers.

Located adjacent to the Colorado River, the Rainey Street Historic District offers a more laid-back, yet equally interesting, nightlife scene. What resembles a row of bars and restaurants built into a neighborhood, Rainey Street hosts craft beer bars (like Craft Pride), diverse culinary offerings and outdoor lounges.

West Sixth is much more upscale, leading the way west of Congress Avenue along Sixth Street to North Lamar Boulevard. Whiskey lovers ought to check out TenOak, as their collection covers the world’s offerings (you can even get a shot of the extremely rare Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year for $125). Kung Fu Saloon is worth checking out if you like arcade games, especially on Sundays when all machines are free (I learned that I’m pretty damn good at skee ball). The Ginger Man is a wonderful pub with an impressive beer selection and big, affordable pretzels, really all I require for a satisfactory night out.

In swanky North Lamar, along North Lamar Boulevard, you’ll find the Lamar Whole Foods Market, the company’s flagship store. “Do I really need to come here?” you ask yourself as I did. I would say a resounding yes. Imagine several Whole Foods Markets put together and add numerous food stations (tacos and barbecue included), a massage parlor, and a craft beer and wine bar. You can order an adult beverage to drink while you shop. While. You. Shop. And it doesn’t even need to be a selection from the bar; browse the walk-through refrigerator and pick a bottle of something for yourself (with a nominal corkage fee).

South of the Colorado River along Congress Avenue is the area known as South Congress (or SoCo). There are a number of restaurants here, including a really nice Torchy’s Tacos, as well as numerous places to lounge with drinks. During the day, we had a satisfying brunch at Snooze (an Eggs Benedict and Bloody Mary heaven), before which we had coffee with butter in it (yep) at Picnik. I would recommend both for morning recovery.

Another notable neighborhood is South Lamar, of which I know very little except that The Broken Spoke, a historic dance hall that hosted musicians like Willie Nelson and the Dixie Chicks before they were famous, is situated here. If you’re looking for food and drink in this area, I’d recommend Juliet Ristorante, a “new Italian cuisine” restaurant with impressive cocktails (they made one of the best Boulevardier cocktails I ever had). The ambience is also lovely with retro (think Sinatra) tunes, a sparkly interior and a spacious patio with a dedicated outdoor bar.

During my time in Austin, I stayed in the East Riverside area. If you happen to be in this neighborhood, definitely check out The Buzz Mill. In what resembles a log cabin, you’ll find both craft coffee and infused spirits served by tattooed hip dudes. It’s great for working during the day (free Wi-Fi) and also outdoor drinking at night. This was one of the coolest joints I frequented.

It should be noted that Austin is very hot in the summer (surprise). This makes walking long distances a pain, hence the need for public transportation or a car. Thankfully, the buses are easy to take and are relatively cheap. And while Uber and Lyft have, for the moment, been forestalled in the city, new options like Fasten (sign up and get credits for your first ride!) have emerged to fill their place.

So, at long last, we come back to the beginning as most stories go. I spent Fourth of July watching fireworks explode from the patio of a country house. I drank my fair share of Lone Star Beer and even witnessed a guy shoot flames from a “glove” he made with fireworks and a cardboard box. Then there was the rocket that went sideways instead of upwards, prompting everyone to leap to safety. And there were guns (because Texas). It was unlike any Fourth I’ve ever celebrated, and I’m grateful for having been a part of it and not losing an eye.

One of the cardinal sins committed by many American travelers is our obsession with the abroad. Often our sights are set on exotic locales far away, geographically and culturally, from our homes. But America is a large and diverse country with much to see, and the more I travel internationally, the more I appreciate what our country has to offer. I’m happy to add Austin to my collection of life experiences. It’s a fun city filled with wonderful people, and now I see the appeal.

Hover over photos/press and hold on smartphones for info…

The post Austin — Where to Drink and Eat All of the Things (and Do Some Stuff) first appeared on Keane Li.

I’ve also included a compilation of vintage Hawaiian music from YouTube below which you can play to add to the escape. Hover over photos/press and hold on smartphones for info.

Have you been to Hawaii? What was your favorite part of your trip? Let me know in the comments below!

KAUAI

OAHU

The post Visions of Hawaii first appeared on Keane Li.

Is it worth visiting? Definitely. If you’ve any love for history, Colonial Williamsburg is an immersive and fun experience. The passion exhibited by the knowledgeable actors/scholars/workers here is incredible and infectious. It’s also an ideal attraction for family travel, as it gets the kids out of the textbook to see history tangible and alive.

5 TIPS FOR VISITING COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG

1) Plan ahead when it comes to purchasing tickets

You could see much of Colonial Williamsburg in as little as two or three days, though to get the thorough experience, a timeframe closer to five days would be appropriate. This is because there are numerous small exhibitions, walks and speaking engagements that change across the days of the week. There are also two impressive museums: the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum and the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum (I’m not a huge fan of decorative arts, but I found these museums entirely engrossing).

The multiday pass is the best deal for most visitors, as it costs just $10 more than a single-day ticket but gets you admission for the whole year. Consider also your plans for visiting Jamestown and Yorktown, as there are tickets that include admission to those historic attractions as well.

2) Suspend belief and get involved

Lose yourself in the time period and don’t be afraid to get a little silly. Ask a lot of questions. The staff here are all extremely knowledgeable about their era. They’ll even look at you oddly if you mention something anachronistic to their period. If you have children, you can rent costumes for them from the gift shop in the Regional Visitor Center. Because everybody loves seeing little kids in costumes.

3) Invest yourself in stories

Every actor in Colonial Williamsburg has a name and a backstory. Get invested with these characters, most of whom come straight out of history. I was particularly moved by the actress Emily James and her portrayal of free-black-woman Edith Cumbo. She delivered a moving performance on stage at the Hennage Auditorium in the DeWitt Museum. Later, she appeared at the R. Charlton Coffeehouse (pictured above) in which she went slightly off character and began discussing subjugated peoples across history.

4) Don’t forget about the rest of Williamsburg

Right at the edge of the colonial center sits Merchants Square, just across Nassau Street on Duke of Gloucester. The College of William and Mary (the country’s second-oldest school of higher education after Harvard and the college of Thomas Jefferson) lies just beyond it. In Merchants Square, you’ll find over 40 shops and services, including The Peanut Shop of Williamsburg, where you can sample a huge array of flavored Virginia peanuts, and Kimball Theatre, where they offer a variety of shows and films (some of which are free). Other attractions outside of Colonial Williamsburg include the numerous antique shops and obvious tourist attractions, such as the odd yet entertaining Yankee Candle megastore (where it’s always Christmas).

5) When you’re tired, grab a drink at Chowning’s Tavern

You’ll find Chowning’s Tavern on Duke of Gloucester Street, the more casual (read: cheaper) of the two restaurants in the heart of Colonial Williamsburg. Keep in mind that you’re still in a touristic location, so prices at this 18th-century alehouse don’t really reach true “tavern” levels. What makes Chowning’s Tavern fun is that they serve a menu of food items from the pre-Revolutionary War period, as well as colonial-era beers recreated by the local craft beer brewery, AleWerks Brewing Company. If you’re looking to save money but would still like to enjoy the ambience of colonial dining, stop in during an off-peak moment and grab a few drinks. They also have pub games during certain hours of the day.

Got any questions? Let me know in the comments section of this post!

Hover over photos/press and hold on smartphones for info…

YORKTOWN

The post Colonial Williamsburg – 5 Tips for Visiting & Photos of America’s Past first appeared on Keane Li.

Also check out my photos of the Honolulu City Lights from 2011 and 2012 (I was lazy last year).

The post Christmas in Paradise – Honolulu City Lights 2014 first appeared on Keane Li.