As the SAIS bus from Palermo to Catania drove through the narrow streets of the mountaintop Sicilian town, the bus driver began honking repeatedly to warn others that we were coming through. Elderly Sicilians stood on their balconies, their faces without expression as the bus passed. The driver honked again, a double-tap, yelling, Siamo qua! Buongiorno! (“We’re here! Good morning!”). Several of the passengers share a laugh.